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I have received several requests to forward to the lists the responses I got concerning the trailer topic, so here they are.
Thanks again for the great info!
David and Donna Brubaker
Member - MVPA
1972 M151A2 U.S. Air Force Security Police
http://WWW2.Southwind.net/~b52d
"Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety."
-- Benjamin Franklin
Nov 11 1755, from the Pennsylvania Assembly
-----Original Message-----
From: LEEnCALIF@aol.com [SMTP:LEEnCALIF@aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2000 10:47 PM
To: mil-veh@uller.skylee.com
Subject: Re: [MV] Trailering an MV the right way
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The first thing I learned is to have good trailer brakes!
If you are using dual axles and I hope you are, be sure that all four hubs
have brakes or if not...that the last axle has the brakes on it. If the
first axle has the only brakes it could cause some tracking problems when
braking hard.
I found out the hard way, its better to have more axle strength than you will
ever need. Pot holes and bumps put a tremendous strain on an axle, spindle
and bearings and you don't want to have a problem at high speed with any of
those items. I snapped two spindles at once recently while towing a 1.5
tonne military truck, but fortunately at low speed after just coming off a
rain slick hwy. Could have been really nasty.
Don't forget about the tires. Special trailer tires tend to track better,
especially in reverse with duals. I use 2400 lb load, 6 ply, full belted, 8"
wide tires, but only because I bought 4 used for $90 nearly new! Otherwise I
would use trailer tires. My axles are new, (just installed - up from 7500 lb
axles) and are now rated at 11,200 lbs max load.
I use a 23 ft. 5th wheel type, which for me is much better than the bumper
hitch type. This particular trailer has a full tilt diamond plate bed via a
15,000 lb hydraulic lift. It has it's own battery supply too, but also taps
into the electrical system of the tow vehicle.
Just in case... I have a 12,000 lb capacity winch, but rarely use it. I have
extended winch control cables so I can stand off to the side and watch the
vehicle go up the ramp. A great safety factor.
I don't use straps, although I have a heavy set... I prefer use 1/2 inch
diameter chain with binders, but then I am securing a far heavier load than
most.
Trailer lighting is a real help when you do it right. I have white floods
for night loading, six amber side markers and 6 red stop/turn lights mounted
high on the top of the goose neck framing.
As far as theft prevention goes, I can lock the hitch jaws shut. My paint
job is a military specs type with British insignia on all sides. An overhead
rotating yellow beacon on the goose neck makes it even more conspicuous.
Suppose that all helps deter a would be thief.
I figure the upgrades in axles, lights, tires and brakes only costs a bit
more than an ordinary car trailer and it's well worth the extra money. The
whole package as it sits cost me about $2900. Now I don't have to worry
about a thing, it's ready to load and tow within minutes.
Jack Lee
Ferret Mk 2/3
SUMB
PS want to see a good looking SUMB in camo with trailer? E-mail me.
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