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The old rule was that you could shoot enamel over lacquer if the lacquer was
totally dried and for the most part I think that rule still works.
Putting lacquer over enamel doesn't work if the enamel is not totally cured.
(Traditional enamel requires a long period of time to totally cure without
hardener) I believe that you can put lacquer over enamel if the enamel was
applied with hardener and then allowed to dry throughly for a month of so. I've
put enamel over rustoleum red primer and that has worked in the past. I think
that the rustoleum primers are much better at rust prevention than the typical
spray lacquer primer.
You can get around a lot of imcompatibility problems if you use a sealer between
coats of fairly incompatible paints.
FWIW,
Dave
Bob Kelly wrote:
> *This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
> Hello,
>
> I have been busily stripping small bits and pieces of my GPW from engine
> heads to top bow swivel brackets (found some more nice "F" marks). Following
> the advise of this list and others, I obtained "quality automotive primer"
> that can be relatively generic. I am using (for small stuff) spray cans of
> gray LAQUER based primer as the base coats. This is the stiff you can get
> at the local auto parts store in spray cans for about $2-3 per can. I am
> using the Gillespie 319 as color coat.
>
> My question is, I think the Gillespie is ENAMEL paint. Will this cause me
> any headaches later with problems caused by painting enamel over lacquer?
> Chipping or peeling? Bad sealing against the elements? Does it make sense to
> use a "Rustoleum" type of primer?
>
> As it is now, I have been treating all of my cleaned and painted parts like
> they are little babies or something and they look absolutely beautiful. Not
> to my wife though. She just doesn't get it.
>
> Thanks for any input you all can give me,
>
> Bob K.
>
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This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Thu Mar 02 2000 - 22:30:40 PST