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Don't use the "red stuff" in anything, unless you want to start replacing
parts alot sooner than you should. It is also diluted 50/50 with water, but
if the level gets slightly low, it turns into a horrible brown gunge that
eats everything. (GM has neat bulletins on this) Stick with the good old
green stuff. Brian 41 WC12
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lisa" <jeepcj8@home.com>
To: "Military Vehicles List" <mil-veh@uller.skylee.com>
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2000 8:56 PM
Subject: Re: [MV] M37 Progress Report & Head Questions
> *This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
>
>
> Cougarjack@aol.com wrote:
>
> > <snip>The cylinder head will need to be resurfaced,
>
> Should I be worried about: 1) Valve-to-head-chamber clearance, 2) Length
of head
> bolts (too long after re-surfacing), and 3) Increased compression ratio
(should I
> cc the head and calculate it?). I plan to have the machine shop vat the
head.
>
> > <snip>Always use new headbolts if possible. The 230 bolts are cheap, at
$1 to
> > $2
> > each, a small percentage of a very expensive engine rebuild.
>
> Yeah, but there are a lot of them! :-) This I must do, luckily the two
special
> bolts that have a bolt threaded into them are OK.Should I find hardened
washers
> for underneath the head bolts, and has anyone found if headbolts from a
common
> engine will work, like say from a Ford 302 or Chevy 350?
>
> > <snip>One thing that is often overlooked is to renew the "spot face",
or the
> > little circular seat
> > on top of the cylinder head that each bolt head tightens on. It's often
> > galled, and prevents proper torquing. There is a spot facing tool for
use in a
> > drill press that does a nice clean job.
>
> Yes, a few are really galled. Should the machine shop do this, or can I
find this
> bit and do it myself?
>
> > <<Also, is there any way to prevent this corrosion, or were the
previous
> > owners
> > negligent about antifreeze and flushing/replacing coolant regularly?
> >
> > <snip>There are a few things you can do, but yes, your guess is
> > right..maintenance
> > must have been poor. You can obtain a brass rifle chamber cleaning
brush,
> > and vigorously clean each tapped hole, with a power drill if necessary.
>
> I used a thread cleaning bit.
>
> > <snip> Now, the BIG ONE: As you can see, the 230 head is high and dry
> > above the engine's cooling system. If you lose an ounce of coolant,
there
> > will be dry bubbles in the head water jacket somewhere. These of course
will
> > run much hotter. Take care over the life of the engine to keep the
coolant
> > level up to the top, and you'll have very little corrrosion and
heat-related
> > trouble.
>
> I wonder about using that new red coolant that Chevy uses; straight
coolant, no
> water to cause steam pockets. There is no way to put an overflow bottle
on, is
> there?
>
> > <snip>I'm not sure why so few folks understand this about the 230. Study
> > the engine and you'll see! One last thing: You MUST use the proper
bypass
> > thermostat in the 230. There are a dozen variants that will fit and
operate,
> > but only ONE which handles bypass flow correctly in the military
engine.
>
> Wow. I didn't know this.Lots of good info, Thanks!
> Lisa
>
>
>
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This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Tue Apr 04 2000 - 21:57:08 PDT