*This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
CONGRATULATIONS!! My first M37 was free, too, and if I had had decent
advice I'd have saved myself a lot of early problems.
I got more opinions than carter has liver pills on the M37. First of all,
split rims and combat rims are two different things. Combat rims are just
like wwii jeep combat rims. Split rims are later and much more common. OK,
now the questions -
How familiar are you with M37?
Got the manuals yet? Either CD or paper. I like paper for all the obvious
reasons, but CDs are cheaper.
Weak points are oil system in engine and rear axles. On hot days there is
sometimes a fuel percolation problem and vapor lock. Everything else is
easy.
Fasteners bolts wheelbearing nuts etc are all huge, will require bigger
tools. Recommend you buy wheelbearing wrench from MV mag, makes it SOO much
easier. I did, and also bought a 3/4 drive set from Harbor freight.
Save everything you bought. Don't sell a thing yet. Extra motor and trans
means you can have a spare powerpack ready for when you need it. Especially
if you go through it ahead of time. I've got one in the corner on an engine
stand under a dustcover just waiting for the need. I turn it over
periodically by hand to keep it freed up, and spray a mist of oil down the
plugholes.
Three years sitting outside? pull off the seats and go through the nooks
and crannies underneath, that's where they always rust out. Plus the bottoms
of the underbed tool boxes.
I would bleed the brakes with 100 alcohol and let it sit a bit, too.
I'd drain the oil carefully into a clean container, and evaluate sludge
content, including reaching into the pan and scooping out all that you can.
If there is much sludge in the pan, I'd drop it, clean it completely, remove
and clean the oil pickup, etc. I had an oil pickup stop up from sludge and
spun a bearing. VERY sad day.....
Pull the oil pressure relief plug under the distributor, clean it and make
sure the little piston works well in the bore. take the filter housing off
and clean and desludge it too.
Run a line from the fender mounted gascan to the fuel pump for the initial
start. Blow out the gas lines before using. I would pull fuel sender and
carefully inspect tank, and probably drop it for a thorough cleaning first.
The M37 fuel system is straightforward and simple, and I've fixed several of
them without replacing parts, just making new gaskets and cleaning cleaning
cleaning. That's a long story for another email.
Go over electrical system with ohmmeter, especially if you put power to it
and breakers start clicking under the dash (there are three or four) . The
M series electrical system is very very easy to fix and maintain, by the way.
I mentioned the axles? The rear ones are massive, but break when abused.
It's easy to replace them. THey run about $100 a side now, I always have
several on hand. Most of the trucks I've gotten had one broken. Important
part is to get all the broken pieces out.
Original drivers seats are getting harder to find. Many people replace the
springs with foam. Your call there. Fording system and engine primer
usually gone. If so, it's ok, they don't matter except for judging points
and are easy to find. If they are there, make sure primer is disconnected or
doesnt' leak. They usually do. Checkthat the crankcase vent valves are open
(they are usually safety wired open) and the heat riser valve is unstuck and
pointed to "summer". For this, you'll need to check the manual. Don't
force that heat riser if it's stuck, do the liquid wrench and patience thing,
or you'll be pulling the manifolds off. Having it completely open really
matters out there on hot CA days. take off the heat shield that covers the
fuel pump (one small nut and one ex manifold nut with liquid wrench) clean
it, and paint the top side bright silver with a white primer coat. cool fuel
pumps make all the difference, too.
So, how's that, or do you want more??
Mike in VA
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Tue Apr 04 2000 - 21:57:20 PDT