*This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
Mike,
Thanks for a tremendous article my Congratulations ! You have helped
many collectors & maybe started some new ones, by making it within reach.
OK List now how about the same info for an M38A1 Carburetor rebuilding
job.
We get one line warnings but no complete factual information.
What Manual would be needed to rebuild a Carburetor ???
If there were a magazine out there that specific, I would be a life
subscription.
Tom McHugh, New Jersey
52 M38A1
MVPA
On Mon, 20 Mar 2000 13:36:38 EST Amikesomm@aol.com writes:
>*This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm)
>Pro*
>CONGRATULATIONS!! My first M37 was free, too, and if I had had
>decent
>advice I'd have saved myself a lot of early problems.
>I got more opinions than carter has liver pills on the M37. First of
>all,
>split rims and combat rims are two different things. Combat rims are
>just
>like wwii jeep combat rims. Split rims are later and much more
>common. OK,
>now the questions -
>How familiar are you with M37?
>Got the manuals yet? Either CD or paper. I like paper for all the
>obvious
>reasons, but CDs are cheaper.
>Weak points are oil system in engine and rear axles. On hot days
>there is
>sometimes a fuel percolation problem and vapor lock. Everything else
>is
>easy.
>Fasteners bolts wheelbearing nuts etc are all huge, will require
>bigger
>tools. Recommend you buy wheelbearing wrench from MV mag, makes it
>SOO much
>easier. I did, and also bought a 3/4 drive set from Harbor freight.
>
>Save everything you bought. Don't sell a thing yet. Extra motor and
>trans
>means you can have a spare powerpack ready for when you need it.
>Especially
>if you go through it ahead of time. I've got one in the corner on an
>engine
>stand under a dustcover just waiting for the need. I turn it over
>periodically by hand to keep it freed up, and spray a mist of oil down
>the
>plugholes.
>Three years sitting outside? pull off the seats and go through the
>nooks
>and crannies underneath, that's where they always rust out. Plus the
>bottoms
>of the underbed tool boxes.
>I would bleed the brakes with 100 alcohol and let it sit a bit, too.
>I'd drain the oil carefully into a clean container, and evaluate
>sludge
>content, including reaching into the pan and scooping out all that you
>can.
>If there is much sludge in the pan, I'd drop it, clean it completely,
>remove
>and clean the oil pickup, etc. I had an oil pickup stop up from
>sludge and
>spun a bearing. VERY sad day.....
>Pull the oil pressure relief plug under the distributor, clean it and
>make
>sure the little piston works well in the bore. take the filter
>housing off
>and clean and desludge it too.
>Run a line from the fender mounted gascan to the fuel pump for the
>initial
>start. Blow out the gas lines before using. I would pull fuel sender
>and
>carefully inspect tank, and probably drop it for a thorough cleaning
>first.
>The M37 fuel system is straightforward and simple, and I've fixed
>several of
>them without replacing parts, just making new gaskets and cleaning
>cleaning
>cleaning. That's a long story for another email.
>Go over electrical system with ohmmeter, especially if you put power
>to it
>and breakers start clicking under the dash (there are three or four) .
> The
>M series electrical system is very very easy to fix and maintain, by
>the way.
>I mentioned the axles? The rear ones are massive, but break when
>abused.
>It's easy to replace them. THey run about $100 a side now, I always
>have
>several on hand. Most of the trucks I've gotten had one broken.
>Important
>part is to get all the broken pieces out.
>Original drivers seats are getting harder to find. Many people
>replace the
>springs with foam. Your call there. Fording system and engine
>primer
>usually gone. If so, it's ok, they don't matter except for judging
>points
>and are easy to find. If they are there, make sure primer is
>disconnected or
>doesnt' leak. They usually do. Checkthat the crankcase vent valves
>are open
>(they are usually safety wired open) and the heat riser valve is
>unstuck and
>pointed to "summer". For this, you'll need to check the manual.
>Don't
>force that heat riser if it's stuck, do the liquid wrench and patience
>thing,
>or you'll be pulling the manifolds off. Having it completely open
>really
>matters out there on hot CA days. take off the heat shield that
>covers the
>fuel pump (one small nut and one ex manifold nut with liquid wrench)
>clean
>it, and paint the top side bright silver with a white primer coat.
>cool fuel
>pumps make all the difference, too.
>So, how's that, or do you want more??
>Mike in VA
>
>===Mil-Veh is a member-supported mailing list===
>To unsubscribe, send e-mail to: <mil-veh-off@uller.skylee.com>
>To switch to the DIGEST mode, send e-mail to
><mil-veh-digest@uller.skylee.com>
>Send administrative queries to <mil-veh-request@uller.skylee.com>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Tue Apr 04 2000 - 21:57:21 PDT