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Jack,
Use a standard blind rivet, aluminum bodied, steel core, with a head
diameter about the same as the original rivet. Pop them in, access is
required only from one side, hence the name "blind" rivet) then if necessary
tap the broken steel tip a little until deeper into the rivet body in the
gun. Now top off each rivet with a blob of epoxy or JB weld or other
paintable permanant and rugged goop. Then sand off to the pan head shape of
the original rivet, and VOILA! Youre done. I've done it. It looks great
and is cheap.
Practice first on a made up steel model of the holes with different rivet
styles till you get what you want.
----- Original Message -----
From: <LEEnCALIF@aol.com>
To: Military Vehicles List <mil-veh@uller.skylee.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2000 3:37 PM
Subject: [MV] Assemble 1919A4?
> *This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
> Re: Machine gun, Browning 1919A4, 7.62
>
> Just finished assembly of a fairly complete shell for a 1919A4 and it came
> looking nice. I had to use JB weld to hold in rivets for the right side
> plate! Still good enough for a display.
>
> Now I am working on a complete display parts kit for a second Browning MG
and
> want to do a better job, but the problem is hammering in those darn
rivets!
> I want to fit the rivets in permanently on both side plates. However,
once
> you rivet one side on, doesn't matter which....there isn't enough room to
> punch the stem of that helical rivet into a mushroom on the inner side of
the
> second plate. So how do you rivet on both sides plates? Help!
>
> I tried using the flat end of a socket and wedging it in between the two
> sides, then driving the rivet into it, but it doesn't completely mushroom
out
> the rivet. Frustrating!
>
> Thanks in advance for your expertise.
>
> Jack
>
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This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Mon May 01 2000 - 05:30:07 PDT