*This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
Well, ahem, we aren't all through writing yet...... :o)
Cost wise, I think your best bet will be going for regeared differentials or
bigger tires, but honestly, do you REALLY want all that metal going that
fast? If you go with the tires off the USMC LAV's, you'll get more speed,
but at around what, $200 a tire? Or the regeared diff's at $1600? Not sure
about those prices, it's all available in MV magazine. Perhaps you could
find a transfer with a higher "High" ratio and mount it in place of the
mighty chunk of steel it comes with? Once it's in and hooked up, your
problems are solved (except for the higher final drive speeds).
Anyone saying "yeah man, redline that powerful Six" may not be super
familiar with this series of engine. It has inherent oil system problems.
Not a problem at low rpm, but up high....... Unless you take the 230/251
apart and balance and blueprint it, you are going to put a rod through the
block or spin a bearing. It's a good industrial motor, and forklift motor,
but without $$ invested, it just won't go 3000 rpm for very long. Much less
longer at the rated 3200rpm.
....................BOOM!clankaclankaclankaclanka......
Yes, yes, I know there are folks out there who do, but I bet they're the
exception. And remember that these motors in gov't service didn't go very
long between overhauls, and also usually weren't doing long high speed
highway miles. At least they weren't really planned to. I've rebuilt one
and am doing another for another M37, and after doing small block Chevys and
Ford sixes, you can really see what you are working on is an antique design.
A Cool antique, but antique, nonetheless.
If you get it geared for the higher speeds, but not a LOT higher, you can
probably get by with the stock brakes as long as you remember what they can
and cannot do.
I'm not trying to be a wet blanket here, but you have an M series Dodge, and
without throwing money at it, you are better off going about 48mph. Easiest
thing to do and later undo is go bigger tires, remembering that they can be
harder on axleshafts, wheelbearings (on bad terrain) and steering. Have a
big civvy set for cruising, and another stock NDT set on stock rims? Maybe
that's the cheapest and best way?
Another thought from the peanut gallery, my M37s are cheap to operate
precisely because I spend practically NO money on them, just keep the one I
drive legal and running, and tinkering on the others as time permits. I
simply use them as designed. I DID have another running until I went a little
too fast too long on a fairly low mile and strong motor and..........BOOM!
That one should be running again by the fall. At $50 a year insurance and
practically no taxes, I really see this as a low buck hobby vehicle, and any
money in the MV budget goes to M151A1 stuff, or a deuce when I can find one I
can afford. I think the diesel/ 5 speed power/power conversions are
extremely cool, and would love to have one for free. I just could never
justify the cost in my plan. It would pay for an M715, that elusive deuce,
maybe a mule.......
Quantity is Everything
My .02 USD
Mike in VA
M37s
M151A1
M38A1
WC62 rustpile
...........by the way, I coasted my green pig down a STEEP hill and got it up
around 70?? (a guess) and boy was that an exciting ride. The other guy was
right, it DO seem faster in an M37. Had the windshield down and sand and
dust goggles on, felt like the Rat Patrol or something. Pretty scary, but
wild and loud. I'll never do that again! I'd put it up there with bungee
jumping and eating live snakes........
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Sun Jul 02 2000 - 23:51:27 PDT