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I started to pull apart the right front hub on the truck today, the one that
was all wet with oil and/or brake fluid. Found some interesting things,
just thought I'd run some issues past any of you who have dug into your
trucks this deep before.
The outer seal looks as if it was not pressed all the way on, thus the inner
bearing was contacting the metal of the seal and not the shoulder of the
spindle, am I correct in assuming that the seal should bottom out against
the face of the spindle?
The manuals are worse than I thought. Give me a WWII era manual anyday!
The proceedure in the LO for greasing the knuckle/U-joint housing makes no
sense at all. They say to remove a plug or plugs then add grease to the
level of the plug... seems to me that you would remove the two plugs then
add grease to one until it comes out the other???? Or just add all the greae
via the kingpin caps and let it flow out the side holes??? It looks like
someone greased it but did not take out the plug(s) as the tube beyond the
inner oil seal had grease in it. What procedure do any of you use for this?
Also I have some grease that was meant for this kind of application which is
very 'sloppy' for lack of a better word, rather than generic GAA grease.
Is the inner seal something that should be changed now that I have it all
apart? It looks like the seal is installed into a disk which presses in, is
the seal replaced as a complete unit or do you replace only the seal and
reuse the disk?
The manual talks about putting a bead of sealer onto the sheetmetal piece
that goes on after the backing plate. If your going to use sealer shouldn't
it be put onto the back of the spindle?
The 12 nuts that hold the spindle on must have been seriously over torqued
as the lock washers where flatened out and the nuts themselves were
deformed, two of the nuts had the threads ripped out of them. I will
replace all the nuts but do you bother with the lockwashers? I've never put
much faith in them.
The rubber boot on the brake cylinder was off on one side and there was
liquid sitting inside the bore. Seems like with new cylinders only costing
$24 it might be just as well to replace it, what do you think? The shoes I
will replace for sure as they are saturated.
There is some loose grease on the outside of the big boot and the rubber has
peeled away from the backing near the zipper. Again, while I am this far in
would it be a good idea to just replace the boots? I seem to recall some
time back someone talking about these boots, something about some imports
not being to good and someone had some nos ones that were good, anyone
remember that?
The shoe thickness is in the range of 0.15 to 0.21, the book says a min of
0.33". This seems like it's gone along way past the point were they should
have been changed, or in practice is it acceptable to run the shoes longer?
Any other hints would be appreciated.
Thanks,
je
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