For all hands:
I am forwarding a message from a Marine friend of mine who is located in
South Carolina; I would suspect he will get a broader and deeper response
from all of you than the what I could provide him from my research over
time. I am sending him some other information, I have advised him on
markings for his jeep if painted in a corresponding period FMF color scheme
vs garrison color scheme.
Please roger up to him as I know you will and welcome into the net....
Semper Fi,
Stew Rayfield
Maj USMC (Ret)
-----Original Message-----
From: MAJ & MRS R. S. RAYFIELD, JR. [mailto:RAYFIELDs@worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 7:30 PM
To: R. S. RAYFIELD, JR. DUSA(IA)
Subject: Fw: Re My '47 Jeep CJ2 Info Request
----- Original Message -----
From: <FDMcCusker@aol.com>
To: Richard Grover <grover@asu.edu>; Bennie Howard <HowardB@visi.net>;
Dwight Howard,Sr. <DDHoward@kua.net>; Shorty <shorty@comsys.net>; Stu
Rayfield <Rayfields@worldnet.att.net>
Cc: <FDMcCusker@aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 7:38 PM
Subject: Re My '47 Jeep CJ2 Info Request
> Thank you, gentlemen. The information you gave me earlier today is most
> useful even though it throws up some caution flags.
>
> I went and drove this thing about four miles and looked it over as
thoroughly
> as I could on my amateur own. Here is what I found.
>
> JEEP, 1947 CJ2 or CJ2A -- More Likely a CJ2A
> VIN Undetermined, partly because I didn't know for sure where to look.
>
> Chassis
> Frame appears sound, but cannot be sure until inspected on a lift by good
> body man.
> Springs all have eight (8) leaves
>
> Steering
> Needs repair. Could be just a worn and loose tie rod end that connects
the
> two control bars, roughly in the center of the front end.
>
> Brakes & Wheels
> Definitely needs two or more wheel cylinders. What would be better
way
> to go?
> Attempt to rebuild using kits
> Buy rebuilt? At what price?
> Buy new? At what price?
> Shoes - It does stop OK, but needs fairly heavy pedal pressure.
> Condition uncertain until two wheels can be pulled for inspection.
> Drums - Right rear has one broken lug stud
> Condition unknown until two wheels can be pulled for inspection
> Tires - All four mud & snow tires are worn to less than 25% life
expectancy
> and should be replaced.
> Wheel Rims - four original. No spare
>
> Drive Train
> Engine - 4-cyl. Flathead, Serial Nbr.RJ307349
> Cylinder Head has number 689860
> W2
> Carter 1-bbl carburetor
> Original Choke and Throttle (above speedometer) not working.
> Choke is different push-pull knob left of steering wheel
> Original air cleaner and connection hose missing.
> No oil filter installed.
> Engine rebuilt late 1999 or early 2000
> Muffler & pipes appear okay.
> Electrical system changed from 6- to 12-volt.
> Key-activated starter
> Has alternator rather than generator
> Headlights work okay
> Parking Lights missing. Holes where they should be installed are
> there.
> Tail light lens cracked and not working
> Horn works off a dashboard button
> Under dash wiring needs rework
> Speedometer does not work
>
> Transfer Case - 4-Whl Drive does work, but shift linkage from both levers
> is shakey. I was able to change ranges once but it won't change back
to
> 2-wheel high using the levers, you have to go under and fiddle with
linkage.
> Transmission - Jumps out of second gear, but will stay in if you put a
little
> pressure on the shift lever. Owner says this is just a linkage problem.
> Clutch pedal return stops 1.5-2 inches short of full out.
> Front Wheel Hubs - very aged style requires manual knob twist to change.
> Knob on each is solid metal about 3/8 in thick with diamond-like pattern
> around edges. Does not look anything like the Warn hubs that I have seen
> elsewhere.
>
> Body - Evidence of sever rust on underside. Some new floorboard metal
> grafted and welded in then covered with "DuraGlass." Real condition
probably
> cannot be determined without thorough power wash.
> Rust evident at various places along seams between body sides and
floor
> pan
> Both Front Fenders - Must replace little "step" at back end of each
> "WILLYS" is stamped on both sides of hood, windshield cowl below glass
> and on tailgate.
> Windshield frame is NOT original. It is made of welded pipe and
square
> at top corners. Glass is ONE PIECE framed and hinged at top connection to
> horizontal pipe and bracketed so it can theoretically flip out 2-3 inches
> from the bottom.
> Windshield frame can fold down flat and lay on hood.
> Windshield Wiper - One only on left side
> Paint is non-original navy gray with black military type stenciling.
> Will need entire new paint job.
> Rear View Mirror - missing
> Two Front Seats - Original frames
> No Back Seat
>
> I found some parts info at www.JCWhitney.com and some pointers at
> www.Hemings.com.
>
> If any of you can offer any added advice, info, parts sources, valuation,
> etc., I am all ears and most grateful.
>
> Thank you,
> Frank McCusker
> Myrtle Beach, SC
> 843-497-0386 Voice
> 843-497-5824 Fax
>
>
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