Good postings Chance I will file them away as I have learned something new
to look out for on my truck. You are correct about the Difference in wiring
for the blackout system, but the civy diagram should help with the 247
upgrade Keith was needing.
As for the wiring on the ammeter, this is truly a night mare I was junk
from the factory and is still junk that will kill the truck when it goes
out. I was told that the Army authorized a bypass of the Amp gauge,by
installing a Stewart-Warner gauge to the left of the original Amp Gauge
hole, in the side of the dash that is a bare panel. I did this trick and it
works great. Original Dodge Gauges are expensive and will still fail. I have
seen many that melted the dash when they fried and could even start a fire.
Thanks Mark M-886 in New Mexico
> Some other bits for 880-series owners that may've already been discussed:
>
> 1) The wires at the back of the ammeter guage are invariably loose. I've
> seen four trucks with this problem, and two of those had a
> "bang the dashboard to start it" symptom - and literally melted
> guage housings.
>
> 2) Check the filler neck to the plastic gas-tank. Three trucks I've
> had dealings with all leaked when filled up - and the clamp at the
> bottom of the filler hose to the tank was the culprit each time...
> if memory serves. Been awhile.
>
> 3) NEVER disconnect the battery while the vehicle is running to
> "check the alternator". You will smoke the "computer"
> (electronic ignition, really) instantly.
>
> 4) The alternators/regulators don't seem to take kindly to
> being loaded with a less-than-ideal battery (i.e., one
> you have to jump-start frequently, or one with
> a dead-or-dying cell.) Common-sense for most
> vehicles, but some are more forgiving than others, IMO.
>
>
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