My source of information about single wire GM alternators is from a 70 year
old man who rebuilt starters and generators and alternators for a living all
his life.
I have used this system on my cckw for 20 yeas now and have replaced the
battery once.
On one other truck truck I installed the resistor and on another I installed
a tail lamp. Neither made any apparent difference to the initial charging
speed
Steve AKA Dr Deuce
Electrical Engineer by profession
----- Original Message -----
From: Carol Kenyon <Da-Kenyons@webtv.net>
To: Military Vehicles List <mil-veh@skylee.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2000 10:07 PM
Subject: [MV] Single Wire Delco Alternators
> I've noticed several questions about Delco
> alternators with integral regulators that I'd like
> to address. They cause batteries to go dead?
> C'mon, if all vehicles with older AC Delco alternators caused batteries
> to go dead after a few days or weeks I'd never get to go home!!
> Look for a draw in the system. It MIGHT BE in
> the integral regulator but if it is--get another unit! The "single
> wire" decscription is not
> true! All CORRECTLY operating Delco alts. need atleast TWO wires
> connected externally
> to make them work PROPERLY. Yes, I've seen
> the "little boxes" you can get to convert but why
> not do it the factory way??
> Yes, you can run the alt. with one wire if you're
> willing to put up with high rpm charging cut-in!
> The factory had two wiring systems. One with
> gauge and one without. The one with gauge
> (voltmeter) used a little green relay that had three wires running to
> it. The one without HAD
> A BUILT-RESISTANCE IN THE FEED WIRE
> FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH IN THE FORM OF THE IDIOT LIGHT!!! Use your ohm
> meter
> to see approx, resistance and go get your own
> resistor(s) to replace the light. The resistors can't be the wimpy
> carbon-type, they have to be
> the larger wire-wound type to handle the load.
> The feed wire (not the heavy output wire) was
> typically brown. It is possible to stuff the two
> wire connector in backwards but that won't last long. Usually a
> inoperative alt. will result. As far
> as checking charging system voltage, where do
> you guys check voltage at? What kind of meter
> (analog, digital, cheap or FLUKE) do you use?
> Charging system can be (overcharge) 18v+.
> Set your meter on the nearest scale just above
> max. expected voltage and READ IT. With the
> engine running check AT THE BAT TERMS.
> If output wire is accessible you can check voltage here, also. Voltage
> at the back of the
> Alt is nearly always different from what is seen
> at the bat. This can be as little as a few tenths
> of a volt to several volts. Obviously a two volt
> difference is something to be concerned with
> but you must realize that the diff will always be
> higher the MORE the alt is putting out. Ohms
> law, you know.
> All the above applies to 12v systems, but using
> a little multiplier (like 2) you can use my description to check 24v
> systems. Never, ever
> check charging by disconnecting the bat while
> the engine runs!! Don Kenyon ASE Certified Master Technician, L-1, CA
> "EA" Smog Lic.
>
>
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This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Sat Sep 02 2000 - 09:32:34 PDT