I was just talking with my paint store dealer and he suggested an "etching primer" for both galvanized and aluminum. Does that make sense?
HLH
Jim wrote:
> Hi Gavin and List,
>
> You are probably having trouble with the solder. It is kind of like trying to paint galvanized sheet steel. The zinc is slick on the surface and the paint will peel off on its own. You have to treet galvanize with vinegar to get the surface to oxidise and give the paint tooth to grab a hold of. I think you can do the same with solder but some of the other guys here have probably dealt with this before and can shed some light on it.
>
> good luck,
> Jim
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gavin Broad [SMTP:invest@portsmouth-mann.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2000 12:42 PM
> To: mil-veh@skylee.com
> Subject: [MV] Painting fuel tank question.
>
> Hi List,
>
> I painted my old M151 fuel tank some months ago and put a lot of
> preparation into the job. Back to bare metal and many layers of zinc
> primer and then normal base coats.
>
> Recently, the painted area along the seam where the neck is sweated to the
> tank body has creased, as if fuel was leaking through the neck seam and
> that was, indeed, my assumption.
>
> Then, yesterday, I was undercoating an NOS fuel tank, having rubbed it down
> and the paint has reacted in the same way in the same area.
>
> Question:
>
> Is there a reactive potential between the material used to attach the neck
> to the body (i.e. lead/solder/braze/weld) and certain types of paint?
>
> Thanks for any pointers here.
> Gavin
>
> "One-stop shopping for Life Assurance and Pensions"
>
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