----- Original Message -----
From: "Nick !" <kickinasphalt383@hotmail.com>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2000 6:04 AM
Subject: Re: [MV] Blazer Update
>
> Hey Stuart
>
> Sounds like you have had all the same problems as I had with my M1008. I
had
> hard starting so I replaced the glow plugs then the coolant temp and then
> had the controller checked. Finally I gave up and brought it in to a very
> good military repair shop. A week later I got my truck back with its new
> relay controller and they charged me $200 to install the $35 controller.
>
I mentioned that one of our company's 1009's has a working glow plug system,
but will still refuse to start on the first crack, but will almost always on
the second.
The circumstances are almost exactly as described by Stuart, but I've never
had
time to look into it.
This got me to thinking that perhaps the cold-start solenoid on the injector
pump
is either not working, or not working properly. You can check the signal to
the cold start solenoid by disconnecting the lead from the injector pump
first thing
in the morning (i.e., no start attempt prior to this), hooking up a 12V
testlight or
voltmeter, and turning the ignition to RUN. You should get a light.
Now, if there's no light, that means either the temperature sensor that
drives this is
unplugged or not working, or there's some miscellaneous wiring difficulty
you'll
have to track down. If it *does* light, it means the cold advance solenoid
is
receiving the turn-on signal from the harness, but doesn't really indicate
the solenoid
itself is functioning. I can't immediately think of a handy way to check
that.
> And about the generator, I have that problem too. I have been to lazy to
fix
> it but I think it has to do with the belt. On my truck the generator belt
is
> slightly loose, but it can't be tightened because the generator is pushed
> back all the way. So either the belt has streched or the belt on that one
> generator should actually be shorter. You probably will notice that if you
> have all your electricals (lights, heater, wipers) going at once it gets
> even brighter, just because the alternator has to work even harder but the
> belt is too loose.
At night, you can see my GEN 2 light glow dimly at idle, but I've driven a
few
trucks that do that so I've never bothered to investigate. In the situation
above,
it could be belts or a dirty connection somewhere - but I'd start with the
belts, and tightening a belt that's been slipping for a bit is actually
quite
useless, as they've typically been 'polished' to the point they'll still
slip
even if you can use them as harp strings (had a Chev like that which I put
two alternators in - only to find it needed a $4 belt instead.)
I have a pet suspicion about the fan causing this light problem, so what you
should do is hook up a voltmeter across your No.1 (front) battery, note
the system voltage, then turn on your heater fan. Note the reading. Turn
off the heater fan and turn on basically every other accessory from wipers
to flashers to cabin light (everything BUT the heater fan) and take a
reading
once again, observing the GEN light each time as well.
If the system voltage doesn't drop appreciably, but the GEN light still
comes
on, then some AC transient caused by the heater motor might well be setting
off the GEN light. It's a stretch, but a thought.
Andy Hill
MVPA 9211
Vancouver, B.C.
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