Comments below.
>All window mechanisms are there and work (all windows go up and down.)
>Correct gages (I believe)
>Original Heater
The window mechanisms will probably need rebuilding at some point. Gauges
are getting expensive. John Bizal is selling speedometers for $285.00. The
heater may have been added, but was not put on at the factory if it was an
Army Truck.
>Top original (I removed the old wood and fabric insert, but nothing has
>ever been welded, bolted, or screwed on to the top of the truck to replace
>it.)
>5 combat rims with two sets of original snow chains
>Documented military history
>It has been stripped to bare metal and primed. Ready for your choice of
>paint schemes.
These combat rims are going to be next on the rare list. The post war power
wagon guys like them, and they are hard to get. Top replacement is not very
difficult on these, as long as what you start with for base metal is not too
rotted.
>Problems:
>The driver's side door sags and won't line up to latch right. The bottom
>hinge mount point on the door itself has cracked and will need to be welded
>and/or reinforced to properly support the door. While you can see the rust
Both mine have this problem, and it is not a one day fix. The only way to
do it properly is to build new sheetmetal, and re-rivet the door hinge back
onto the door. Not easy.
>through on the inside base of the door, I think the problem is metal
>fatigue, not rust related.
Actually, it probably is rusty inside the door. Dodge painted only the
exterior surfaces of the metal. The insides of the doors and window boxes
are un-painted.
>
>Passenger side door also has some rust at the base. Not bad, again, take a
>look at the photos on the web site.
>
>While on the subject of rust, we might as well cover it all. The bottom of
>the battery box is shot. The section of the body just ahead of the battery
>box and behind the passenger door will also need patching.
I make new battery trays for this vehicle. Price is $30.00 plus shipping.
Patching the other stuff is not too bad.
>The seam between the top and bottom body sections on both sides has some
>pitting in it. (longer on the passenger than driver side) Easy bondo or I'd
>imagine even lead fill, although I have no lead experience.
This is a very difficult problem to fix properly. I have spent almost 150
hours working on mine, and it still is not done properly and needs more
work. Of course, I am replacing metal with metal, not bondo. The space to
work on this is very carmped, and you will need to remove the window boxes
when you work on it. I think when I do my next Carryall, I will completely
dissassemble the body before rebuilding it. All the bad spots on the truck
are very difficult to work on- access is terrible.
>Passenger side corners, front and back of the roof channel will need some
>patching as well.
This is ominous. It means you may find more rust. If it was sandblasted
well, and then painted, you should be okay. But expect to find more.
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Mon Feb 05 2001 - 07:13:45 PST