Leave the front shaft and have dummy drive flanges made from alu, steel,
wood or plastic (poor mans locking hubs). Keep the ral flanges under the
front seat in a trash bag. Takes 5 minutes with a 3/4" wrench to change
them.
Rebuilt motors are OD I believe.
Steve AKA Dr Deuce
----- Original Message -----
From: tonygull <tonygull@ozemail.com.au>
To: Military Vehicles Mailing List <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2001 5:11 AM
Subject: [MV] CCKW and Owner details.
>
> Here are some details of my CCKW
>
> CCKW-353, LWB
>
> Build: 5/44 Serial No: 358508-1
>
> Engine No: 270247111, Rebuilt 5/12/80 Bore=Std, Pins & Mains .030
>
> Gbox: Reo Motor Inc T93 Serial No R12278
>
> Winch/PTO Gar Wood SNo 74Y6000LT REV
>
> Difs: Chevy
>
> Color is Sky Blue, as purchased by me from Transfield. Owned by them since
> 1958
> ex-Moorebank Army base, Sydney Aust.
>
> Spares: Winch+bumper, F+R difs, TX case, complete Timken truck.
>
> Missing: Drivers "Shift pattern" plate on dash, canvas top.
>
> RE owner survey; Age= 38 yrs
> Occupation; pencil pushing public-servant pr..k
> Military background= no.
>
> A question...is it OK to remove the front-rear driveshaft for onroad
> driving?....i have heard this is good for tyre wear.
>
> Also, what is the correct engine color please?
>
> regards tony
>
>
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This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Mon Mar 05 2001 - 07:58:30 PST