First, Thanks to all who replied to my first post and especially to David
Doyle who nailed the problem.
A recap for those interested. I bought an M35A2 and it was a no starter.
It cranked and ran on ether, but had no fuel at injectors. Fuel recirculated
to the tank, so filters are ok. Got it home and removed cover for Engine
Stop cable and found linkage inside injector wouldn't move. Tapped it into
start position, replaced cover and cranked it and it starts, followed by a
runaway with no joy when engine stop pulled. Luckily, a friend who knew
more about diesels was there and suffocated the air cleaner with no damage
to engine.
After cleaning out our collective shorts, we did three more starts and
kills. This was after adding 1 gallon of Marvel Mystery oil to crank case
and spraying PB rust buster into injector housing where the rod/linkage goes
into the stop plate/ governor housing and working the rod back and forth by
tapping on the end of a screw driver with a mallet.
There was no throttle pedal response nor did there seem to be any
governor in effect. We left it last night with the linkage still bound
up,hopefully to soak and loosen up for today.By my figuring,the linkage to
the stop plate should move by finger pressure. Game plan for today, if it
hasn't loosened up, is to tap it to the closed position then tap it opened a
little and try to get it running at a 700-900 RPM, put the stop cable/timing
cover back on and let it run for an hour or two to circulate the Marvel
Mystery oil mix to work its magic. Anyone see any holes so far?
I've had contact with a guru, but won't be able to talk on the phone
with him until later on this week. To save some time and some of you from
asking questions that I've already answered to the Rabbi, I include my
answer to him. Any input from ya'll would be appreciated.
Ron
PS And for savage amusement, it has Silicone brake fluid, full master
cylinder and no brakes( peddle to the floor, rotten plum syndrome).
FEEL FREE TO LEAVE NOW OR HIT DELETE...
Good morning:
Thanks for being willing to accept my call.
I have downloaded the injection pump manual (TM 9-2910-226-34)and all of
the engine (TM 9-2815-210-34-1,-2-1, -2-2,and -34P) and truck manuals (TM
9-2320-209-10-1,-H,-2,-3,-4,and -20-2-1,-2, 20-3-1, -2,-3,-4, -20P and
the -34 series{5 manuals}). Also, most of the TM 9-2320-361-XX {M44A2}series
and even most of the 9-2320-386-XX (M44A3) series manuals.
Then to make sure I speak Army mechanic speak, I downloaded the TM
9-8000 (Principles of Automotive Vehicles series) and the Light Vehicle
Mechanic (FM series) training manuals.
Thank God for ETM Online and Roadrunner and a laptop and a night job
that allows me to read (or graze) through all of the above and more. As I
download each manual, I go to the references page, make note of what TM's I
don't have and chase them down. I presently have over 1.3 Gigabyte of
downloaded manuals(700,000+ pages{CORRECTION SHOULD BE ABOUT 70,000 })
between the laptop(527 Mb) and the desk machine. I am also a firm believer
in "Without the manuals your you are whistling in the dark, but with them
comes the power to F**k Up your equipment beyond repair due to over
confidence." So I look for Rabbis to talk to, who have been to the Mount,
and heard the word from Sgt. Half-mast
themselves.
Unfortunately, the diesel world is new ground, and injection pumps seem
to be the holy of the holiest. The trouble shooting and maint. manuals
glibly state " Step 1, remove engine from vehicle and place in test stand
and check belts for tightness" if the engine is showing evidence of
overheating. For the Injection pump, they talk about how critical timing of
the pump and engine is and how it can be set only "in the stand, attached to
a dyno" after removal and before replacement and the pump must be setup " on
the test console " after most disassembly steps. These statements are enough
to raise the hackles on the back of my neck. Kind of like the old maps with
the words "Beyond here might lie Monsters".
I bought this truck from (MR. X) because he told me "This is the best
condition truck of all I bought and will probably start right up once you
put batteries in it." It was the most expensive of them all because of it's
pristine condition, and I got to his door before anyone else, so got first
pick. It was a no brainer. Unfortunately, to both of our chagrins it
appears to be one of only three or so of all he bought that wouldn't start
or run. He has been very good about it, offering to return my money if I
would like and calling to see what progress I am making on it. But everyone
agrees, it should be a good truck. Every other truck he bought had some
deficiency, parts broken or missing. This one sat primly in line, nice
paint, little rust, excellent rubber, unripped canvas top and seats, Brand
new complete, very recent replacement of both windshields and frames and
instrument panel, NO stripped parts. Full fuel tank, winch, heater, air
shift front axle, new muffler and master cylinder. The truck I passed on, my
friend bought, put batteries in it, checked all fluids and drove it out of
the line to the parking lot. When our trailer truck failed to show, he went
and got a temp plate and drove it home(65 miles) behind the wrecker towing
mine. His "turd" ran like it just came out of the ORG Support instead of the
deadline.
The joke in our club is that my truck has the equivalent of mechanical
hoof and mouth disease, so to keep the infection from spreading, they took
nothing off it. And if you have a choice on anything, ask Ron which one he
would buy, then buy the other.
Anyways, I will give you a call this week, probably Monday night.
TIA, Ron
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Wed Apr 04 2001 - 08:10:47 PDT