>
> >. . . . . . .The body of the tie rod end completely
> fell off and left the
> tapered shaft in >the arm.
> >
>
> Of paramount importance never, ever, ever, try to
> drive the taper pin out by
> hitting the screwed end, without a nut on it you
> will surely swell the
> threaded portion and the nut will never fit again,
> with a nut flush to the
> end you will swell the taper shaft like a rivet and
> its now never coming
> out.
++++++++
Don't forget to put the castelated nut on backwards.
>
> On smaller vehicles a helper with a big pry-bar can
> be used but a specific
> bolt-up ball joint puller is preferred, there are
> drive-in forked wedge
> tools available too.
++++++++
Tending to be lazy, I use the screw-puller type
seperator and a propane torch. It takes some time for
the little torch to heat it enough but I like to hear
the satisfying "bonk" when it comes loose. If you
direct the flame carefully you won't even burn the
rubber parts.
BIG CAUTION HERE: Don't hit the ball joint with a
hammer if you've heated it!! The grease will have
turned to thick hot oil and will fly everywhere.
SAFETY GLASSES ALWAYS REQUIRED!
>
> Don't expect it to pop out just yet, if it does its
> a bonus. With some
> significant force applied and the puller (its really
> a "pusher-aparter")
> really tightened and to one side, fetch the eye a
> really good whack on its
> vertical FACE with a substantial hammer IN LINE with
> its cast shaft. The
> loose nut on the taper shaft is a protection for the
> thread in case you miss
> ! It also limits the travel when the shaft pops
> out.
+++++++++
I find that one doesn't need a heavy hammer as much as
a good solid hit, anything to disturb the joint. The
toughest one was on my Nissan PU, the M-135 came apart
easily, as did the 3/4 ton Chevy. The hard part is
getting room to swing.
>
> Obviously belting it anywhere else has no effect as
> the shock load makes the
> eye casting spring away, the effect is to swell the
> eye a fraction of a thou
> or less and this releases the pin.
++++++++
Also helps to back the arm up with a heavy hammer,
just held in contact with it to oppose the blow.
This is why three-handed mechanics are in such demand,
competent jugglers urged to apply, too.
Particularly
> difficult joints may need
> some pounding on the sides away from being in line
> with the casting shaft or
> this shaft may be a cranked affair, in these cases
> you have to learn the
> technique of simultaneous two handed hammer
> operation and give it a whack
> simultaneously from both sides at the same instant.
+++++++++
With the precision of a percussionist in the local
philharmonic. I remember a session removing the rear
wheels from a 1950's Farmall "H", two guys with sledge
hammers, no, we didn't break the castings either.
>
> On re-assembly ensure the taper pin and eye is
> clean, if you mis-hit it
> previously and raised a bulge in the flat eye faces,
> dress with a file and
> give one taper surface the merest hint of something
> to alleviate corrosion,
> a non-gritty but grubby finger will do. Use the
> torque specs on the nut or
> the undescribable engineering feel and mechanical
> sympathy (a good "nip"),
> the forces on the taper are huge with quite small
> torques and it goes into
> molecular attraction thereby which is why they don't
> part that easily.
>
> Don't get your biggest Snap-On breaker bar, snug
> socket, brace your feet on
> the chassis and pull until your eyes pop; even my
> Stalwart joints with inch
> and something AF nuts aren't more than snug, you can
> rattle your thumb in
> the taper holes, such is the size of the taper
> bearing area.
++++++++++
Oh, I don't use that method anymore, I just pull 'til
my wrist pops. Kinda like one of those click/snap
torque wrenches.
Joe
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Thu Jul 05 2001 - 00:40:34 PDT