>Now for the questions. I still need both rear leaf springs and all
>mounting stuff which I am working on.
Since no one has answered you, I'll take a stab at it. I have here my
trusty TPC (Transportation Parts Co) catalog which is dated 1975. Don't
know if they are even in business anymore but they have a really nice
catalog of jeep parts. Particular parts are in colums and jeep model
numbers are in rows, including mil jeeps and M715's. Makes it real easy to
cross reference part numbers, and all part numbers are Willys numbers as
far as I know.
So for the front leaf springs ( I know you need rear's but I'll throw these
in also), they show a part number of 927864 which is identified as having
12 leaves. There is no other jeep model using that part number for front
springs. BUT, the individual part numbers for the first two top leaves are
the same as all CJ-5's and CJ-6's, it's odd howver that the bushing is the
same as the M38 only.
For rear M38-A1 springs. Part number is 925940 which is the same as all
CJ5's and 6's and is shown as a 13 leaf, bushings are the same also.
>Q1. Will "standard" shocks for a "modern" jeep work on the M-38A1?
>Seems to be the same size as the most in-expensive things over at
>Sears Auto.
The TPC book is showing a unque part number for M38-A1 shocks, both front
and rear (which are different as well). Now would any old jeep shock work,
I would think so.
>Q2. My shifter ball is indeed rusted. I took off the assembly today
>and the gears and forks are fine..only slight corrosion spots on the
>main gears 2-3 mm "spots" only 4 of them. I covered the "hole" up with
>a plate made from heavy kitchen foil to keep the crud out.
>
> Suggestions to un-stick this thing? I appears that if one takes a
>really huge wrench to the top of the thing one can un-screw the ball?
>Yes or am I mistaken? A weeks worth of penitrating oil did nothing.
There is only one way to find out, do it!
je
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