At 17:41 07/26/2001 +0100, Glenn wrote:
>Thanks Amnon
>Before I do this, can I just check...
>What is it about the procedure that will tell me I have vacuum leak (or
>don't ) ?
>Seems to me that using the rag + hand is effectively the same as using the
>choke. I think I have missed the point of your suggestion.
As a mechanic is was much easier to control the flow of air using my hand
on the carb's throat. If you can control the choke in small increments
that will do. You should not have to give it gas to keep it running if
there is a vacume leak.
>I have just done a compression test. Cylinders 1,2 and 3 are ok, around 70
>lbs. Cylinder 4 is 50 lbs.
>Suggests a valve or piston ring problem in addition to any vacuum leak ?
No rings!! valve. If the rings get loose the compression will actually rise
because oil between the rings and the cyl. wall will seal better than metal
to metal.
It could also be a crack somewhere. Take the radiator cap off, start the
engin and get it to idle somehow, and see that there is no coolant coming
out of the rad. right away. Smell the coolant (while it is still cold) for
anything that resembles gasoline smell.
You could have carbon build-up on the valve seat, something you could fix
by we who own diesel MB call "an Italian Tune-up" which is blowing
everything out the exhost at hi rpm an hot engine (do at your own risk).
On the Benz it is 4000 rpm for 20 seconds on the highway. Did you say you
already adjusted the valves?
Now realize, I see no reason why your engine will run so rough if the only
problem was 50 pounds in one cylinder, there must be something else.
Again, all the above you should do at your own risk !!!
You want it done right? Take it to a professional :-)
Shalom Ya'll
Amnon Nissan
Deltaforce
919-852-2121
http://www.deltaforce.net
Host, Computers 2K1
on 850 The Buzz (AM 850)
Sundays 8-10am
http://www.850thebuzz.com/compute.html
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Tue Aug 07 2001 - 09:34:13 PDT