Crankshafts seem to be sort of delicate in spite of some of them being
really massive. I was in engine manufacturing shop a few months back and
they were heat treating crankshafts. They had these stacked several on a
platform thing and put them in oven. They would not tell me the temp they
held them at or for how long - did tell me that some time in this period
they injected anhydrous ammonia into chamber - perhaps for the nitrogen
content. They were not really very open on this matter. I just happened on
it and got very little information. And I do understand why they were not
very sharing.
One thing I did learn that was of real interest to me was this hardening
treatment only went about 10,000 into metal - I take this to me if I turn
crank past 10 undersize I am now into unhardended metal???
I mentioned not sharing -- I also a couple years or so ago made a service
call to Kellogg breakfast cereal plant. They would not tell me what kind of
cereal they made at this plant - I was escorted to where I was to work on
machine and fellow stayed right with me all the time. By the way they made
Froot Loops and Apple Jacks in this plant --- the dumpster was close to
where I was and they were dumping tons of them there.
We will not waver.
We will not tire.
We will not falter.
We will not fail.
Peace and freedom will prevail.
George W. Bush President USA 10-08-2001
----- Original Message -----
From: "m18.hellcat" <m18.hellcat@netzero.net>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2001 7:36 PM
Subject: Re: [MV] metal cleaning
> As it seems that I cannot get away from work even on my "hobby" mailing
list
> perhaps I can add some input.
>
> Simply take the crank to a reputable shop & tell them what your minimum
> specs are. The key here is REPUTABLE and I can only say that in the entire
> competition engine community most all of us agree there are only a HANDFUL
> of craftsmen left that we all trust when it comes down to our customers
> putting hundreds of thousands of sponsors dollars on the line.
>
> Bob B' has the most important first step below: MAG it FIRST preferably
with
> the CORRECT type not a powder or
> small tank type. Although finish rms should be matched to the bearing type
&
> useage. (remember my post a while back?)
>
> "CJ"'s mention of bead blast tumblers is accurate & useful for oem type
> cranks, take the advice.
>
> - good luck
>
>
> >
> > Get it magnafluxed at a reputable shop and if it passes
> > then get it glass beaded clean.. Then micro polish the
> > bering surfaces with 400 wet sandpaper till the journals
> > are bright enought for you to see our face reflected in..
> >
> > This was stand procedure for all race motors >
> > Bob B
> >
> >
> >
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This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Dec 07 2001 - 00:36:26 PST