You are correct: The ground side of the device can go to the chassis of the
vehicle (I would use the frame rail, or something that is solidly bolted to
the rail to provide a good electrical connection. I have see all sorts of
wacky stuff happen when you start getting high resistance connections.)
Clean the area that you are going to bolt the ground wire to down to bare
metal, use one of the internal/external tooth lock washers between the eye
and the chassis and tighten it down. cover it with paint or grease to
prevent oyxdation.
Good luck,
Hank
----- Original Message -----
From: "William R. Benson" <Benson@eqe.com>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2001 12:11 PM
Subject: [MV] M-37 Electrical Theory 101
>
>
> Esteemed Listers (with apologies for multiple posts across the three MV
lists):
>
> I'm looking at a bit of rewiring on my M-37B1. I am familiar with the
standard
> circuit doctrine where the wire runs from the positive battery post, to
the
> light bulb, illuminates the element, runs out of the other side of the
light
> bulb, to the negative terminal of the battery.
>
> Of course, because this is my truck, I see that the lead from the negative
> battery is bolted to the frame, which makes me wonder if all I must do is
run a
> wire from the battery (or alternator (note, this isn't stick to the M-37,
but it
> is a standard automotive set up for the Chrystler V-8)) to the componant,
and
> then from the componant to the frame?
>
> A little help from an all knowing guru would be great!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill B.
>
>
>
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This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Dec 07 2001 - 00:36:28 PST