I'll let YOU deal with the crap the utility is going
to give people who cut the tag off their meters to
plug in their generator!
Joe
--- Peter Silfven <ttpete@gatecom.com> wrote:
> I own a PE95-K, and I have used it to power the
> house on occasion. If
> you look at the schematic, you will see that there
> are 2 separate
> windings on the stator. They are 110 v. each. If you
> wire these in
> series, you get 220v. If you bring a lead from the
> center tap and call
> it neutral, you will have 220v. 3 wire single phase.
> In other words, you
> have what amounts to a 50 amp. service. This is what
> I did to connect it
> to the house wiring - start with a watthour meter
> that will plug into
> your meter box on the house. Gut the meter out,
> leaving ONLY the base
> with the 2 LOWER blade connectors. These will plug
> into the box at the 2
> LOWER receptacles and feed the house. Make up a
> connecting lead to the
> genset using 6/3 direct burial cable. Connect the
> cable at the generator
> end as follows: Red to one 220 terminal. Black to
> the other. The white
> goes to the center tap. At the meter box the red and
> black go to the
> blade connectors and the white is grounded to the
> box. When you lose
> power, just unplug the meter, plug in the meter
> base, connect the
> neutral wire to the ground terminal you have put in
> the meter box, and
> you are ready to go. The PE-95 is very underrated in
> terms of current
> capacity - in fact, there is a throttle stop screw
> that limits throttle
> opening. The Jeep engine is capable of almost 50 hp.
> and they have
> choked it down to less than half that amount. I am
> sure that if you back
> off on this screw, you will be able to put a higher
> than normal
> transient load (motor start) as long as it is only
> temporary.
>
> kuhrick wrote:
>
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> An alternative is to create a "sub-panel" of just
> the essential
> >> circuits. In
> >> my house, these are the fridge, furnace, water
> pump, and a few lights
> >> in the
> >> central area of the house. These together are
> fed by a 100-amp
> >> panel. The
> >> generator cross-over switch isolates this
> sub-panel. Therefore I
> >> only needed
> >> a 100 amp switch. They are not nearly as
> expensive as stated. A
> >> 200-amp one
> >> is around $400. My 100-amp one was a dumpster
> find from a demolition
> >> site.
> >> It is not automatic, or complicated. Just a
> 2-pole, double throw
> >> switch,
> >> with constant neutral. a p bloom
> >
> > dont for get any sub feed panel has to be 3-4
> wire 3 qirw if
> > 129 4 wire if 140 volt
> > neutral must be sep. from ground
> > or the ground will be hoter than is safe
> email me for more info
> > the rest dont need to read my spelling
> >
> >
> >
> >
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>
>
>
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This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Dec 07 2001 - 00:36:30 PST