Re: [MV] starting problem with my mil car

From: Richard Notton (Richard@fv623.demon.co.uk)
Date: Wed Dec 05 2001 - 12:09:10 PST


----- Original Message -----
From: "Buzz" <buzz@softcom.net>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 7:15 PM
Subject: Re: [MV] starting problem with my mil car

You all beat me to it, bound to be something concerned with the coil boost-volts
feed. I suspect there is no LT feed to the coil whilst cranking but the engine
makes it over another compression sometimes owing to momentum when the key is
let go and this cylinder now fires.

Richard
Southampton - England

Good thought Gordon, Also..... on Ford the resistor switching is done with the
starter relay so
check that also.
Regards,
Buzz

On Wed, 05 Dec 2001 19:02:41 +0000, you wrote:
>It might be.....
>
>sometimes there is a resistor in the area of the coil which allows 12
>volts to the coil when starting (key fully turned) but then cuts the coil
>input voltage down to 8 volts or so for normal driving - this cuts down
>the normal arcing across the points inside the distributor and helps the
>condenser.
>
>The outside of this 'ballast resistor' is normally bolted to the
>distributor or the bulkhead - whatever earth is convenient. If this
>resistor fails it effectively shorts out the whole ignition circuit and
>you get what you describe - including an 'interested' sound when you allow
>the key back from start to run. Assuming it's not electronic ignition or
>anything fancy, disconnect the low tension input wire to the coil, and run
>a wire direct from the battery positive post to that coil terminal, then
>try to start it as normal.
>
>If it starts and runs it's that !"£$%^& resistor - just find it and
>replace it. You should only do this as a test - don't drive the car that
>way, make sure all electrical connections are isolated, use safety gear,
>etc, etc.
>
>If this doesn't work get someone who knows to give it a kick, but plan on
>a new condenser as well.
>
>Gordon
>



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