Here is what we found so far !
We replaced the cap and rotor button along with the wires .
the inside of the distributor was dry but we found deposits on both the
contact part of the cap as well as the rotor button .
I replace these as well as the wires . the spark plugs were replaced also
and they were all within normal wear paterns .
When I replaced the cap button and wires the car starts better and it
started with the key in the normal position .
When it is cold I will try it then and if it doesn't start I will replace
the duraspark box ..
thanks
Jim Martin
ps this car only has 72 thousand original miles
----- Origi
nal Message -----
From: "Carol Kenyon" <Da-Kenyons@webtv.net>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 10:58 PM
Subject: Re: [MV] starting problem with my mil car
> Jim, how many miles?
> If you brought it to my shop with that complaint
> I'd:
> Look at the spark plug wires. Original? OY!
> Change 'em (no Autozone junk)
> Just change those plugs anyway, they're cheap. How about Autolite or
> Motorcraft? NO
> PLATINUMS, BOSCH or otherwise!!!
> Yes! Duraspark has a "ballast resistor" but you'll never find it.
> It's in the wiring.
> Does that choke set? (don't say "what's a choke?")
> Does adding fuel help?
> What did the tips of the plugs look like? Sooty? Nice tan color?
> Try TEMPORARILY adding a jumper from bat + to coil +. Does it start
> now?
> Some of these things used the old Ford four
> terminal starter relay and some used three terminal one. The four
> terminal one has the
> hot "start-ignition circuit" in it. Is the wire connected? Is there
> power out of the solenoid at this terminal (little terminal next to
> start terminal, "I" vs. "S")?
> With lots of miles, timing gears can skip.
> How does this thing run when it does run?
> Good Luck, Don Kenyon
> ASE CERTIFIED MASTER AUTOMOTIVE TECHNICIAN, L-1, CA Enhanced Smog Lic
>
>
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