Besides wiring and sockets, etc, besure you don't
overlook those relays, behind lower edge of dash,
to the right of the STE/ICE receptacle.
2 look alike, 1 is for the 24V meter, the other is the Gen 2 light, field
startup;
the 3rd relay is for the starter solenoid off the ignition switch.
Then you have the one 24V fuse, at the bottom of the fuse block,
think its 5A but not sure.
I'm curious about the overrunning starter. Is it that drive isn't aligned
right, shims or what have you. The design isn't much different than whats
been used on GM products for ages. Any chance its a 12V starter placed by
mistake,
runned on 24V?
Only experience I have had with overunning was CJ 6 V starter on 12V. If I
didn't
get that switch adjusted just right, that starter would start spinning to soon
and start the grinding process.
Only other problems I've run into has been all 12V related. Eratic connectors,
twice in the large connector behind the fuse block (50 year old grease) and
a couple of the underhood connectors. The connectors are not to well
waterproofed.
A have to admit, speaking for myself, I like the split 12V-24V system.
Only one change, up the amperage on the 12V number 1 alternator,
with some aftermarket 140Amper or such.
I have to limit my overall current draw at 24V to about 40Amps.
If you are running headlamps, heater, etc, you are already loosing 20 or so
amps off Gen1. Plus, unlike real MIL stuff, these GM 100A alternators
only give you that current at very high engine rpms, cold.
Even your mil 24V 60A units give you at least that at about 1000-1200 rpms,
least
all mine do.
Hope this is of some use,
Ted.
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