From: Buzz Szarek (buzz@toast.net)
Date: Tue Feb 26 2002 - 05:05:58 PST
This depends on your truck.
I had my accessory switch in the off position for a good portion of the
morning and the truck didn't mind at all.
My son was sleeping and I didn't have the radio on. After he awoke I went
to turn it on and nothing happened. I found the switch was off. I had been
driving for a couple hours before I noticed.
If you have a full tank of fuel and your fuel lines are all tight I think it
will run with out the lift pump operating in some instances.
-=-
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Shanks" <n1vbn@bit-net.com>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 1:12 AM
Subject: Re: [MV] multifuel injector problem
> My suggestion to Ron was if you leave the truck parked in gear lock the
> engine fuel cutoff/shutdown in the out/shutdown position. Remember this is
a
> manual shutoff the fuel delivery engine compared to shut off the
key/switch.
> If you shove the shutdown handle in after shutdown and you leave it parked
> in gear IT CAN RESTART IF IT ROLLS!!!! Granted it won't run long without
the
> run switch in the on position but it has enough fuel in the header to go
far
> enough to run into/over something to do a lot of damage.
>
>
>
>
> James Shanks
> MVPA 23128
> 1998 IMZ 8.103 Russian OD paint job right from the Factory. (Built in the
> original plant in Irbit, Siberia, Russia. Comes complete with sidecar.
> www.ural.com
> 1984 HD FLHT-C
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Neil E. Amrhein" <neil@compu-powr.com>
> To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
> Sent: Monday, February 25, 2002 9:13 AM
> Subject: Re: [MV] multifuel injector problem
>
>
> > List,
> > Joe's original post made me think about something. What is the
> > recommended position to leave the shutoff handle. I have seen people
push
> > them in after the truck stops, but I prefer to leave it pulled out. Is
> there
> > any harm in this?
> >
> > Also, if the truck sits awhile, and I have left the handle out
(off),
> > will the run-away condition be of any concern for me? Or will whatever
is
> > getting stuck on the other trucks, be stuck in the "off" position on my
> > truck? Thus preventing starting altogether?
> >
> > I don't really plan to leave my truck sit for any great length of
> time,
> > but you never know, so I thought I'd ask.
> >
> > --Neil
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <DDoyle9570@aol.com>
> > To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
> > Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 11:45 AM
> > Subject: Re: [MV] multifuel injector problem
> >
> >
> > > In a message dated 2/24/02 8:35:10 AM Central Daylight Time,
> > > MVTrucker@aol.com writes:
> > >
> > > << My M35A2 has been sitting for quite a while and will not start. I
fou
> nd
> > > that
> > > the
> > > linkage on the side of the injector was stuck in the off position >>
> > >
> > > Joe,
> > > I may be able to help you with this....a copy of TM 9-2910-226-34
Pump,
> > Fuel
> > > metering and Distributing is handy too.
> > > I will start at the beginning, just so I (hopefully) won't omit
> anything.
> > > In the center of the top of the hydraulic head of the pump is a plug,
it
> > is
> > > surrounded by the fuel distribution lines. Remove the plug. Stand a
> soft
> > > wood stick up in the hole, and turn engine over while watching stick.
> The
> > > stick should hop and down, but since you are having a no start
> condition,
> > it
> > > probably won't (If it does, we have other issues to discuss). Remove
> > stick,
> > > and spray solvent and penetrant in this hole.
> > > Take out two screws and remove the engine shut off cover and gasket.
> > Verify
> > > that the cable from it to handle on dash moves freely.
> > > The remove the two screws you have just exposed that hold on the
Control
> > Unit
> > > Retainer (a sorta U-shaped bracket)...if I remember correctly these
> screws
> > > are safety wired.
> > > Remove the Control Unit Retainer, then slide out the fuel control unit
> > > assembly. Take care that the small, precisely made, friction fit, T
> > shaped
> > > piece of metal on the inner end of the shaft doesn't get lost. It is
> the
> > > plunger sleeve pin, and that is what all this is about.
> > > Apply generous amounts of solvent, penetrating oil, etc., to make sure
> all
> > > these pieces are free to move. Once free, spray with lube.
> > > Reassemble fuel control unit into injection pump, being sure to orient
> the
> > > plunger sleeve pin properly, it should all slide together smoothly and
> > > precisely, like reassembling a gun. If you think you need to force
> > > something, then you have put something together wrong.
> > > Now, using a brass or similar punch, as close in size to the hole on
top
> > of
> > > hydraulic head, rap the plunger a time or two.
> > > Repeat test with stick.
> > > You may have to repeat the penetrating oil/solvent/pecking/stick test
> > process
> > > several times before the plunger moves freely.
> > > The above steps 90% of the time solves this problem. Occasionally
> however
> > > the delivery valve sticks. This is access by removing a plug in the
> SIDE
> > of
> > > the hydraulic head. Usually this plug is funny looking (12-16
points),
> > older
> > > engines this plug is hex shaped.
> > > Beware, with the way the pump is oriented in the truck, the delivery
> valve
> > > and its spring will want to fall out onto the ground, chassis,
> > > whereever....this would not be good as these delivery valves are
> precisely
> > > matched to the hydraulic heads. So you won't replace just this tiny
> > valve,
> > > but rather the entire, expensive hydraulic head.
> > > Using aerosol solvent/penetrating oil, make sure that the delivery
valve
> > is
> > > not sticking.
> > > Reassemble all the things we have discussed.
> > > Truck should now start. However, any time I have fooled with the
> > injection
> > > pump, or a truck that has not been started in a while, I prefer to
> remove
> > the
> > > air intake mushroom, and have a helper stand by with steel plate or
> piece
> > of
> > > plywood to shut off air flow in the event the engine tries to run
away,
> or
> > > the shut off won't shut down.
> > > Hope this helps,
> > > David Doyle
> > >
> > >
> > > copyright 2002, David Doyle
> > >
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> > >
> > >
> >
> >
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> >
>
>
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