From: aussierob (aussierob@odyssey.net)
Date: Mon Mar 04 2002 - 13:27:57 PST
Hello Ted Hintopoulos. of Willys Tech Group Message Board -
WillysTech@yahoogroups.com
Mike Rogers. of Mil-Veh Group Message Board -
Aaron Horrocks Mil-Veh Group Message Board -
mil-veh@mil-veh.org or mil-veh@skylee.com
..
[Aaron wrote] I'm working on my M38A1.
Frame is done. Rear leaf springs, and rear axel done and mounted.
Working on front axel. Should have a "rolling frame" by Thursday
to show off
Aaron Horrocks
[Ted wrote}
May I ask, how much did you have to do on the frame?
In particular, did you have to do any disassembly and re-riveting?
Ted Hintopuolous
[Mike wrote]
I am really interested in your sheetmetal work on the tub as I have a 43
Willys which needs much of the same work. Your photos would be of great
assistance to me and the group. Thanks, Mike Rogers 43 Willys
Rob writes;
We were very fortunate with this jeep frame !
Althought it is not mine, I'm doing the restoration.
In the North East, the weather in winter requires the salted roads. The Tub
is a real shocker. Most of the floor is gone or barely hanging in place.
For Ted ...yes, we had to remove some of the front bumper and rear bumper
/rivets.
I had an air chisel. They're very noisy too, but yet quite fast !
Very fortunate... this Jeep has all matching numbers
So it is worth saving as much "tub" as possible
The frame has started out to be in basically great shape There was some
heavy pitted spots but really surprisingly, a good frame. It had never seen
a plowblade either ! However, the frame horns had some minor damage, as did
the rear bumper... which did need to be replaced. The frame is not
rolling as yet. Still re-doing both Axles. The hangers are bolted at the
moment... but, I have the option to round off the bolts heads for "looks"
or use hot rivets. This will be decided once the axles are ready to attach
to the springs/frame.
Right now, the wheelhousings are being carefully removed. I'm not so much
worried about the dimensions as I have another tub here to use for
measurements. However, it's very slow going. I'm also trying to save the
rear script panel. The previous owners had really made huge changes with
many many holes... really big holes. I can't imagine what they needed the
holes for ?
The largest hole is 2 inches and goes right through the hat channel I could
fill the holes with a washer then MIG them. I may have to remove the
script and put in a new back panel. The worst case is a new steel back
panel, which I can fabricate, then cut out the script and mig / stitch the
script into the new rear panel.
For tub work, I will neatly cut out a rusty piece and scribe the exact size
onto the new metal. Cut it carefully too. Then stitch weld. Then go back in
between each stitch and so on until it's filled . This will be ground back
smooth later.
I've tried both Flux core and Argon mix. I really like the Argon but the
flux core is quicker. However, there is noticeably more small slag with the
flux core. Virtually none with the Argon gas mix.
By the way I'm no way a body guy... although, I have had some excellent
success. Started welding with Oxy/Acet many years back as a teenager.
Unfortunately, Oxy Acet buckles the new flat panels too much. I picked up
an older, quite small mig with a 200cu ft bottle for $165 After some
teething troubles, I was able to replace the full wave bridge rectifer which
was bad, for $15 at Radio Shack. The bottle alone was a bargain.
Regards to all, I will try to get organised with some pics next week.
Rob P.
Upstate Ny area near Syracuse.
'42 MB Been to hell and back - Runs very well - needs tub work badly
'42 Jeep GPW script, restoring now.
'46 CJ2A Fully Rebuilt Eng. not yet intsalled another bad tub
'47 CJ2As Really Rusty - one Runs (two jeeps)
One, CJ5 great engine - bad tubs
1, Surrey jeep. really nice tub, finally !
Overall a an excellent jeep! - Runs exceptionly well with the brand new
engine rebuild now 600 miles. I added an overdrive. However, I'm soon to put
in a faster Toyota Celica eng. + Auto Tranny
Rob,
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