From: DDoyle9570@aol.com
Date: Tue Apr 02 2002 - 20:41:07 PST
In a message dated 4/2/02 10:52:08 PM Central Daylight Time, plang@lanset.com
writes:
<< Does anyone have a schematic of a fuel distributor made by American
Bosch ? I have a friend who has a 66 M35A2 that we are trying to find
a reason why it won't run. And before we take apart the fuel distributor
we wanted to make sure that we could get it back together.
We have figured that the sump pump in the tank works, but seems
like we can't get fuel past the distributor. >>
For those seeking new revelations from me, this ain't it, it is a rerun of an
answer to a similar question I posted a month or so back.....
I may be able to help you with this....the manual is TM 9-2910-226-34 Pump,
Fuel
metering and Distributing, and it is handy too.
I will start at the beginning, just so I (hopefully) won't omit anything.
In the center of the top of the hydraulic head of the pump is a plug, it is
surrounded by the fuel distribution lines. Remove the plug. Stand a soft
wood stick up in the hole, and turn engine over while watching stick. The
stick should hop and down, but since you are having a no start condition, it
probably won't (If it does, we have other issues to discuss). Remove stick,
and spray solvent and penetrant in this hole.
Take out two screws and remove the engine shut off cover and gasket. Verify
that the cable from it to handle on dash moves freely.
The remove the two screws you have just exposed that hold on the Control Unit
Retainer (a sorta U-shaped bracket)...if I remember correctly these screws
are safety wired.
Remove the Control Unit Retainer, then slide out the fuel control unit
assembly. Take care that the small, precisely made, friction fit, T shaped
piece of metal on the inner end of the shaft doesn't get lost. It is the
plunger sleeve pin, and that is what all this is about.
Apply generous amounts of solvent, penetrating oil, etc., to make sure all
these pieces are free to move. Once free, spray with lube.
Reassemble fuel control unit into injection pump, being sure to orient the
plunger sleeve pin properly, it should all slide together smoothly and
precisely, like reassembling a gun. If you think you need to force
something, then you have put something together wrong.
As I recall, this fuel control unit lever rocks back and forth when the motor
is turning over, but beware, if you can see this, that means that the shut
off is disconnected, so don't just try this for giggles.
Now, assuming that the plunger on top didn't move, use a brass or similar
soft punch, as close in size to the hole on top of
hydraulic head, rap the plunger a time or two.
Repeat test with stick.
You may have to repeat the penetrating oil/solvent/pecking/stick test process
several times before the plunger moves freely.
The above steps 90% of the time solves this problem. Occasionally however
the delivery valve sticks. This is access by removing a plug in the SIDE of
the hydraulic head. Usually this plug is funny looking (12 points), older
engines this plug is hex shaped.
Beware, with the way the pump is oriented in the truck, the delivery valve
and its spring will want to fall out onto the ground, chassis,
whereever....this would not be good as these delivery valves are precisely
matched to the hydraulic heads. So you won't replace just this tiny valve,
but rather the entire, expensive hydraulic head.
Using aerosol solvent/penetrating oil, make sure that the delivery valve is
not sticking.
Reassemble all the things we have discussed.
Truck should now start. However, any time I have fooled with the injection
pump, or a truck that has not been started in a while, I prefer to remove the
air intake mushroom, and have a helper stand by with steel plate or piece of
plywood to shut off air flow in the event the engine tries to run away, or
the shut off won't shut down.
Hope this helps,
David Doyle
copyright 2002, David Doyle
This archive was generated by hypermail 2.1.4 : Sun Apr 07 2002 - 23:57:19 PDT