From: Jim Newton (jnewton@laurel.com)
Date: Fri Apr 05 2002 - 19:27:05 PST
Hi List...
(I DO HAVE A QUESTION FOR THE LIST...SEE BELOW)
Several months ago while doing my walk-around (something I do every
time I drive my deuce and everyone else should too), I noticed a lug
nut missing. Upon closer inspection, the stud was snapped clean off
flush with the drum. The lug nut next to it was bent over at a funny
angle. So I placed deuce on in-op status until I was able to locate
new studs and replacement lug nuts and out them on.
Well, thanks to list member Gene Pantano, I replaced 4 front wheel
studs on my deuce this afternoon.
It was remarkably easy!
For those of you who don't have the TM or are just curious (or are
looking for this info on the web like I did), here's all you have to
do:
After you loosen the lug nuts a bit and jack up the axle of your truck
using the proper safety precautions (chocks, jack stand, etc.), you
are ready to do the following...
1. Remove the tire/wheel assembly,
2. Take off the 8 or 10 bolts (I can't remember how many exactly)
that hold the center cap on,
3. Slide the center cap off,
4. Bend the lock plate tab that is bent down over the front nut so
it is straight and away from the front nut,
5. Remove the large 3" or so nut using a wrench if you have one or
a large pipe wrench or I used a bicycle chain style Vice Grip. It
will not be very tight, so you will not need any exotic tools,
6. Slide the lock plate that was between the two nuts off,
7. Remove the inner nut...you should be able to do this with your
bare hand as it is not tight,
8. Slide the whole drum off, taking care not to bugger up the
threads on the stub axle,
You will now see the brake shoes and wheel cylinder...you can do brake
work, change the bearings and inner seal, or as in my case replace the
damaged wheel studs.
To put the drum back on, just reverse the process but take special
care to grease the bearings. When you put the first nut back on,
tighten it as tight as you can by hand...really bear down on it. Then
slide the lock plate on, then spin the outer nut on and tighten it
with your wrench. Finally, bend one of the tabs down over one of the
hex facets of the outer nut to lock it from turning off. Also, when
you put the center cap back on, you might want to put a little sealant
on the faces...I'm not sure if this is required but I did it because
there was a little sealant on it when I took it off.
OK...HERE'S MY QUESTION:
========================
I've had weak brakes on this deuce since I've owned it. When I pulled
the brake drum off, the brake shoes were coated with what looks like
wheel grease. Is this greasy substance actually grease from the inner
seal behind the inside taper bearing, or is it burned up coagulated
gear oil from the second seal behind the backing plate that keeps gear
oil from the axle and pumpkin from leaking through to the drum?
I cleaned this greasy substance off the shoes and from the drum with
Brakleen, and the brakes work so much better I can't believe it (duh!
What a surprise, eh?). I'm sure the other side's front brakes are
greasy too, so I'll try to clean those up
I'm glad to have the new studs on and have the deuce operational again
(thanks again, Gene) since I will be taking the deuce to the MVCC meet
at Big Bear trip next week and our club's first desert combat camping
sim the following weekend (www.cimmerians.com).
On May 25, we will be loading up the deuce to take all the kids in our
Cub Scout pack (Pack 83 in Belmont, CA) to the Golden Gate Memorial
Cemetery in San Bruno, CA to place US flags on the graves of our US
veterans. After that, it is off to the Cub Scout pack Family Camp.
That same week in May, our BattleBots team will be using the deuce to
take our 3 robots to compete in BattleBots on Treasure Island in San
Francisco! My deuce is going to be very busy the next month or so!
Has anyone had this grease-in-the-brakes problem with their M35A2? If
so, how did you solve the problem?
I'm actually relieved to find that this is the problem...I was afraid
the air pack or master cylinder might be bad. But when I bled all the
air out and tried the brakes, they were REALLY bad so I figured the
air pack and master cylinder were doing their jobs fine.
Thank you all as always!
--Jim "Ike" Newton
o 1984 M1007 CUCV Military Suburban 6.2 Liter Turbo-Diesel Engine 5/4 Ton Cargo Capacity, 4WD
o 1971 M35A2 Military Troop/Cargo Truck "Deuce and a Half" 478 Cubic Inch Turbo-Diesel Multi-Fuel Engine Air Shift Front Axle 2 1/2 Ton Cargo Capacity, 6WD
See them at: http://www.CUCV.net
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