From: Paul A. Thomas (pt@jaxkneppers.com)
Date: Tue Jun 25 2002 - 21:34:21 PDT
>Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 21:33:33 -0700
>To: Military_Vehicle_Mailing_List
>From: "Paul A. Thomas" <bluewhale@attbi.com>
>Subject: Deuce Prop Shaft part II
>
>The parts washer finally arrived..( guy who normally has them for $99
>offers them for $69 on EBay but adds $30 shipping: but for $99 having a 20
>gallon solvent washer is worth it to me ) After cleaning the yoke and
>sleeve of the intermediate prop shaft I found they still would not mesh
>easily. Minor nicking at the end of the splines on the sleeve but nothing
>major anywhere. A friend ( auto mechanic ) came to 'wow' over the deuce
>and took a look. Once he forced it past the first 3-4 inches, the joint
>moves freely as it should ( still need to apply grease to the joint ).
>
>I apologize for bringing this back up, but feel what I've found is
>systemic (?).. and want to try to get a base understanding of my truck
>before assuming things about it.
>
> 1: My truck was an M35. Period. Built in 1952, DMV shows it a
> model year 1953. TM 9-2320-209-20-3-1 shows an intermediate prop shaft
> with a collar mounted to the frame of the truck near where both halves of
> the shaft meet. ( pg 10-2 and on ) And the emergency brake pages show a
> brake handle which is cylindrical. Mine is .... single sided, you reach
> down as the driver and release it by pulling your fingers into your palm.
> Sort of like a pair of scissors or locking pliers.. However that and
> other manuals I've found to date reference the M35A1, M35A2, A2C, M36A2
> ..... Is there a TM series which chronicles the M35? Or should I use the
> 'standard' TM's and apply what seems the same as in the manual? (
> referred to as thinking outside the box<g>)
>
> 2: I see repeated reference to 'soldier B'. Who was this mystical
> soul? Do major retailers like Sears and Walmart carry his/her replacement?
>
> 3: The prop shaft ends are not square. There is a 'long' side and
> a 'short' side. The truck was towed over with the intermediate shaft
> removed and the front wheels in the air, which fabulous list members
> indicated was the proper way to tow the truck. ( thankyou!) Tonight I
> bolted the end at the [I'm back. just spent 15 minutes in the CD version
> manual. Does the TM for each vehicle type include a single page which
> names the major parts/systems? As a sort of index ? ] transfer case back
> in. The other end, at the first rear axle, is almost exactly 90 degrees
> off. The long side is on the short side.
>The prop shaft halves do have a key on them. IMSHO, there is NO way to
>mount the two together if those keys are not in alignment. Thus I believe
>I need to rotate one of the mounting points 90 degrees.
> Does anyone know a 'trick' to do this? Short of getting the truck
> to start and stop when I want it to. My primary purpose now is to get the
> truck to 'STAY' put. To start it I have to trace the wires.. St Vincent
> de Paul said there were keys to start it when the truck was donated to
> them, but the keys were lost... And there are no key holes anywhere on
> the overly modified dash or in the drivers area of the truck.
>
> I doubt there is a short cut, but have to ask. I can't rest easy
> until I'm sure the truck won't wonder through my back fence, even if
> curious kiddlings happen along and jump the currently 7' tall fence. :}
> Jacking up a single axle might be possible but the options are limited as
> the truck is on a dirt bed with no real access from the sides. {OK! It
> was poorly planned. But they were going to scrap this truck, and it
> appears to be rare. Mayhap not even legitimate. How could I resist? <g> }
>
> I wonder. Would a GOAT have been less trouble?
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> Paul
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