From: Jon Shoop (shoop19@brick.net)
Date: Wed Aug 07 2002 - 23:17:19 PDT
All you have to do is DA the primer.......overcoat should stick to it. Red
oxide should take the paint, unlike epoxy primers that have hardened......
Jon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Buzz" <buzz@softcom.net>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 10:47 PM
Subject: Re: [MV] Gillespie Paint Problem
>
> John,
> All primers are not the same, as you found out. Read the label carefully
as to the type of primer
> AND drying and recoat times. My guess would be that the primer dried out
on you so that the color
> coat couldn't bond to it. That's a real problem here in Nevada in the
summer, I have to use the
> slowest reducer that I can find.
> GL,
> Buzz
>
>
> On Wed, 07 Aug 2002 22:26:27 +0100, you wrote:
> >Calling all paint experts:
> >I am restoring a Marine Corps mule and am painting it in Gillespie 24052
> >Semi-Gloss U.S.M.C. Forest Green. After bead blasting the steel parts,
> >spraying on red oxide primer, then the Forest green, I have discovered
> >that the paint is not sticking very well. In fact, I can scrape it off
> >easily with a steel rule. Rats!
> >What I would like to find out is what did I do wrong? After bead
> >blasting, I wiped off the parts with lacquer thinner and used a good
> >quality (I thought) automotive red oxide primer made by Sherwin
> >Williams. I had run out of the Gillispie red oxide primer so is this
> >where I went wrong?
> >I would like to hear from you guys that have used the Rapco paint and
> >find out if there are any special tips to avoid repeating my mistake.
> >Oh, well, back to the blast cabinet......
> >
> >John Rozell
> >
> >
> >
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>
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>
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