From: Bjorn Brandstedt (super_deuce@hotmail.com)
Date: Thu Sep 26 2002 - 08:49:26 PDT
That's the beauty in engineering, every problem has more than one solution,
most solutions are compromises, which let us improve on just about anything,
except perhaps the deuce...
Bjorn
>From: "ygmir" <ygmir@onemain.com>
>Reply-To: "ygmir" <ygmir@onemain.com>
>To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>,"Bjorn
>Brandstedt" <super_deuce@hotmail.com>
>Subject: Re: [MV] 24 volt pyrometer?
>Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 08:14:45 -0700
>
>Hi all,
>The advise I got on installing a pyrometer, from an old timer here, is that
>it is best installed close, but after, the turbo. There is info available
>as
>to max. temperatures for distance "down stream" in the exhaust manifold,
>and
>it usually drops by several hundred degrees. But, the chance of anything
>breaking/falling off and destroying the turbo is essentially eliminated. My
>pickup, for instance, has this configuration. The max temp for the location
>of my sensor, is 900 Deg. F. As long as you know the maximum temperature,
>it
>doesn't really matter what it is.
>The reaction time of the pyrometer shouldn't be much of an issue, your
>exhaust temp. doesn't change instantly. It seems it would be more important
>to have something that would be most durable.
>In theory, if you have a boost gauge, you use it to avoid overheating,
>anyway. After a while, you will find maximum amounts of boost you can
>handle, for a period of time, that will result in certain temps. For
>example:
>I find that in my truck, pulling, if I run much more than 15 lbs. of boost,
>the exhaust temp. (and coolant) gets to high if I hold that for to long.
>For
>short periods, it's fine, though. Boost, while driving, can be adjusted by
>changing load/throttle settings.
> Ok, I rambled, but it seems some folks are buying turbo-charged engines
>for
>the first time, and maybe need some info to avoid unnecessary damage.
>Henry
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Bjorn Brandstedt" <super_deuce@hotmail.com>
>To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
>Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2002 4:58 AM
>Subject: Re: [MV] 24 volt pyrometer?
>
>
> > Joe,
> > The pyrometer consists of two parts, the dial indicator and the sensor
> > (K-type thermocouple). The thermocouple generates a small voltage in
>direct
> > proportion to the temperature. This voltage is indicated on the
>dial,which
> > is graduated in degrees F. The range will be about 200 at idle up to a
> > maximum of 1200 degrees F or so. Never let the exhaust manifold
>temperature
> > exceed 1250 deg F! The only need for the 12 or 24 volts here is for
> > illumination.
> > The best way to install the thermocouple is to drill and tap the exhaust
> > manifold at a point near the turbo inlet. You really need to remove the
> > turbo first so that metal shavings will not fall into the turbine, which
>may
> > destroy it.
> > The thermocouple tip must be of highest quality. A bad thermocouple may
>get
> > its tip burned off and destroy your turbo.
> > There may be a way to install the thermocouple on the outside of the
> > manifold, but the reading will have to be corrected by several hundred
> > degrees and the response time fill not be good.
> > If you do not want the dial permanently installed, you may use a Digital
> > Voltmeter with an adapter for thermocouples and read the temperature on
>the
> > DVM.
> > You may spend $30-$40 for the thermocouple and $100 for the DVM plus
>some
> > for the adapter.
> >
> > The Boost gauge is nothing but a pressure gauge with its "sensing tube"
> > plumbed into the intake manifold housing. There is a plugged tapped hole
>in
> > it, so that should be easy to fit with some copper tubing and a fitting.
> > You should be able to make initial readings here using any gauge with a
> > range of about 0 to 15 psi. Again the voltage would be for illumination
> > only.
> >
> > The boost comes from burning more fuel. If you have too much fuel for
>the
> > air supply then there will be lots of black smoke (= unburned fuel).
> >
> > When the turbo (LDT) version replaced the naturally aspirated (LD)
>version,
> > not much fuel was added. The additional air (boost) just made the
>combustion
> > more complete. The governor was adjusted to supply less fuel during
>sudden
> > changes in demand to reduce black smoke during acceleration, which also
> > reduced the torque some, probably. This was done with the "smoke
>limiting
> > cam", which was set at a different angle on the LDT version.
> >
> > I'm getting carried away here...
> >
> > Good luck,
> > Bjorn
> >
> >
> >
> > >From: "GOTAM35" <gotam35@sc.rr.com>
> > >To: <mil-veh@mil-veh.org> (Military Vehicles Mailing List)
> > >Subject: [MV] 24 volt pyrometer?
> > >Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 23:54:14 -0400
> > >
> > >I want to thank all you guys for the advise about the diesel. One more
> > >question. I went to "Truck Supply" today and checked on a pyrometer
>and
> > >boost gauge. Everything they have is 12 volt. Do any of you have a 24
> > >volt
> > >gauge? If not how did you make the 12 volt gauge work? I can use my
>new
> > >transformer but I didn't plan to keep it powered up all the time.
> > >
> > >Also what kind of boost pressure will this thing run? The gauges come
>in
> > >two ranges, something like 0 to 25, or 5 to 50 somethings.
> > >
> > >The pyrometer will run me a little over $100. Can one be found
>cheaper?
> > >
> > >Thanks again for all the help,
> > >Joe Trapp.
> > >
> > >
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> >
> >
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