From: Ryan Gill (rmgill@mindspring.com)
Date: Sun Nov 10 2002 - 22:21:02 PST
At 6:47 PM -0800 11/10/02, Paul A. Thomas wrote:
> > If you turn the motor up, or start it, you just circulate all
>this crud, and moisture
>
>I was wondering about that; water condensation over a few years
>inside the crankcase and what effect that might have on the oil,
>especially in a 50 year old engine.
Bad acidic stuff. Drain it first, then turn it over. A bit of mineral
oil or diesel run through the system to clear it out couldn't hurt
either.
>The Lube Order in TM 9-8022 calls for 9 quarts of OE 30 for the engine.
The consensus with the folks that restore Dingos from '40s is use
what the MOD used then. SAE30 is OMD-110. One restoration guru uses
140 wt gear oil vs the 90 wt oil in the bevel boxes in order to keep
a higher viscosity in the passages. I've been doing this and it seems
to help the leakage.
>
>I don't mean to start a discussion, but most mechanics I know say
>put whatever you want in the engine, even to the point of mixing
>single weight oil with (?) dual weight ( 10-40 for instance ), which
>I was brought up to believe would cause the sun and moon to drop
>from the sky.
Well, if you're putting synthetic oil in, you might be wasting money.
Many modern oils are made specifically for engines with close
tolerances. The extreme range of this is my Honda Insight. It's a
Gasoline Electric hybrid with a 3 cyl, 1 liter engine. It uses 0w-20
oil. This engine has such amazingly tight tolerances and tuning that
it has 4 specs of spark plugs depending on how the threads line up in
the cylinders so the electrodes all face the exact same way.
>Is there any consensus on whether a specific oil should be used in a
>50 year old gasser? ( ' Consensus ' as in not just reading the LO
><g> )
So the spec says use OE30? I'd use that barring a very credible
opinion from someone else.
--
--
Ryan Gill rmgill@SPAMmindspring.com
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'60 Daimler Ferret '42 Daimler Dingo '42 Humber MkIV (1/2)
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