From: Patrick Jankowiak (eccm@swbell.net)
Date: Sat Nov 16 2002 - 18:42:36 PST
Today, I managed to inspect and hopefully fix my leaking outer rear axle seal.
I have already replaced the 80-90 synthetic GL5 with what I could get which was 80-140 non synthetic GL5. It is much thicker, sticky, and less slimy. I filled to 3/4" in down from the hole as was
suggested.
Upon removing the axle and the locking nut and washer. I found that the inner adjusting nut was loose! Apparently it had not been torqued very well by the mechanic with the chisel and hammer. The book
says 50 Lb-Ft. I went 70, and the wheel spins as freely as can be, so I left it there. I will be monitoring the temperature of that hub.
The cool thing is, I did not have to remove the wheel. I jacked up that wheel 1" and removed the axle. I slid a 1" block under the outer edge of the outer wheel. After removing the adjusting nuts and
the outer seal, which was undamaged and in fine shape, I 'wiggled' the wheel a bit and the bearing slid forth.
Inspecting, I saw that the hub had most of the grease washed out of it, as did the outer bearing. With the outer bearing removed, I was able to fill the hub back up with grease using a grease gun with
a hose attached. The hose end just fit right inside through the space once occupied by the outer bearing. "Give the hardest job to the laziest man and he will find the easiest way to do it".
The little cork insert was fine, having been replaced only a couple months ago, so I gooped it up real good with red silicon, backed it up with silicon in the keyway, and also placed a thin film of
red silicon on the axle tube under where the outer bearing goes, as has been kindly suggested.
Red silicon was used as before to seal the axle to the hub.
Time will tell, I am going to drive it 100 miles to Waco TX and back, see how it acts. I might add that I'll be doing 45-50, per the recent warnings about dry rot. My fronts are new, but 2 of the
rears are pretty bad.
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