From: Paul A. Thomas (bluewhale@jaxkneppers.com)
Date: Wed Jan 08 2003 - 10:11:13 PST
Hi Rick:
I have all of the military manuals for this truck: M819, M908022
and the CD on the M35 series. This truck was converted to a fire truck by
the local county fire dept, who claim to have absolutely no records on it
what so ever. Thus I'm tracing wires, or trying to <g>, and building my own
schematic as I go.
I did speak to someone who used to work on Peterbuilts today: he
says they had a ' main switch ' like my deuce... throw that on, kick down
on the floor starter then hit the ' start ' button on the dash and it will
start. That info may or may not help <G>
My primary concern is the wiring and voltage. Once I'm sure I
have it connected properly I can build out from there.
Thanks for the thoughts
Paul
*********************************************
At 10:41 PM 1/7/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>Paul,
>On a military M45 series truck, M35A2 ect. the system wont have power until
>you turn on the Main switch.
>This is a lever that rotates clockwise and the "tail of it passes above the
>"kill" pull.
>How your system is wired now may differ.
>The lights should be on a 3 part switch that will not allow any to work till
>it is turned on.
>Do you have a operators manual for this series truck?
>If not get one, it will give you the layout for the proper Dash switches.
>
>
>Rikk Rogers - RK Lion LTD.
>(580)762-3157 rkltd@swbell.net
>http://home.swbell.net/rkltd/
>-M35A2- -M38- MVPA -22345-
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Military Vehicles Mailing List [mailto:mil-veh@mil-veh.org]On
>Behalf Of Paul A. Thomas
>Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 9:56 PM
>To: Military Vehicles Mailing List
>Subject: [MV] Deuce Wiring Puzzlement
>
>
>I picked up my 6TL's today ( then referenced the TM's: my 1953 M35 takes
>TWO batteries only. color me surprised ) The battery cables were
>disconnected when I got the truck, however I believe the electrical system
>as with most of the truck has been altered from what it looked like as an
>M35. Instead of a positive and negative cable with one bridging cable
>between the batteries the truck has four cables coming into the battery
>area. The cables are of different gauge wire with different
>connectors. Two wires are solid red, one other has a red area near the
>clamp.
>The two reddest wires go directly to ground on the housing at the front of
>the transmission. The other two get lost in the wires added when they
>converted the truck: I plan on having a friend come over and help me wiggle
>wires and map what goes where soon. As deuces are negatively grounded (
>they are, aren't they? I couldn't find reference to this in TM 9-8022 or
>9-819 ) I guess that these two cables should go to the negative posts on
>the batteries. That left the other two cables to go to the Positive posts.
>I am unsure how to start the #@$^$#@#$ truck. The foot starter is
>mentioned in TM 9-819, however there is also a push in button on the dash
>labeled 'Start'. And two separate pull knobs on different areas of the dash
>named 'ignition'. There is also a 3" toggle switch near the glove box
>labeled ' Master Switch '.
>I connected the batteries as mentioned above, checking to see if there was
>a spark when the negative clamps got near the battery posts.. no spark,
>thus no open circuits.
>I was unable to get power to the truck. Unable to get any lights to come
>on, unable to get the engine to turn over. I know there was power because
>there are a pair of ' Frankenstein ' switches on the floor above the drive
>train tunnel. When I moved either of these switches to connect a large
>spark occurred and the pump engine behind the cab started to turn
>over. But nothing else would come on.
>
>My question ( finally <g> )
>
>Any idea how I can be sure I am connecting the battery cables correctly?
>
>I doubt they rewired the entire truck, but they DID sidestep a number of
>systems ( like the fuel pump: they bypassed the mechanical pump on the
>engine in favor of an electrical one they bolted onto the frame ).. and the
>batteries have four wires... I wonder if the vehicle might be 12 volt now
>instead of 24? The Pump Engine did move, but if I had wired the electrical
>system in reverse wouldn't it still move when I applied power? ( probably
>causing damage? ) I pulled the left/front signal bulb.. no voltage stamped
>on it but the model was 1141... Then pulled a headlight: no voltage, and
>the back of it is a solid glossy black (?) but no real part numbers front
>or rear....I was hoping to confirm a 24 volt negatively grounded system
>but...
>
>Photos are available at
>
>http://www.paulathomas.com/images/
>
>The ones starting with 'battery' show the battery box area and the starter
>wiring. I have hundreds of other pics, but as the web site itself shows I
>haven't gotten around to doing much with anything there. However if a
>photo of something in particular might help answer these questions please
>let me know: I'll upload it.
>
>PLEASE let me know if you can't see the photo's within your browser: The
>strangest things seem to keep photo's from being viewed in web sites or
>just as files as I am pointing toward them here... I am learning as I go:
>any feedback would be appreciated.
>
>
>Thanks for any thoughts which might keep me from blowing my baby up.
>
>
> Paul
> MVPA# 24986
> '53 REO M35 Fire Conversion
> '53 AEC Chevy 3/4 Ton
>
>
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