From: Paul A. Thomas (bluewhale@jaxkneppers.com)
Date: Wed Jan 08 2003 - 18:41:33 PST
Thank You to those who helped figure out how my truck is wired. In two
days I received two or three dozen posts, all offering something new to the
puzzle.
I just popped three photos up at my site showing what I am calling the main
power switches. These are the two ' Frankenstein ' switches originally
noted to be sparking when connected after connecting the batteries. After
all of the feedback and follow up, it seems the truck WAS swapped to 12
volt ( the regulator and the generator show 14 volts, 60-100 Amps ).
Each ' main ' switch seems to be independent of the other: Once I figured
out how to get lights or other things to come on they would do so with
either switch connected. ( Thanks Bill G ) If one system goes down due to
a bad battery then you can switch over to the other. As the two circuits
share every other component I couldn't see another advantage to having two
12 volt batteries run in parallel (?).
Of the two pull knobs marked ' Ignition ' on the entire dash, the left one
is for the pump and the one in the middle of the dash is for the truck
engine. The noise I heard before now appears to me to be a fuel pump in
the pump engine area either bad or going out. When the ignition switch for
the pump is pushed in, the noise stops. There are also knobs and buttons
to start it on the main pump panel on the side of the vehicle.. so perhaps
they wanted the ability to be able to control the pump engine when short
handed, from more than one location?
I still need to trace wires ( any thoughts on how to make sure the ignition
circuit is working on a truck that has been completely re-wired? Basic info
like battery goes to starter goes to switch1 goes to... ? ) And now that I
have power going to the strap on electric fuel pump I'm stopping by to pick
up some functional 1/4" fuel line. <BG>
Thanks again to all. Long live this list!
Paul
MVPA# 24986
'53 M35 REO Fire Conversion
'53 AEC Chevy 3/4 Ton
www.paulathomas.com/images
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