From: Mark Ehle (markehle@hotmail.com)
Date: Fri Apr 25 2003 - 15:51:29 PDT
Sometimes,if enough of the stud is sticking out, you can weld an oversized
nut onto it. The heat from the welding causes the stud to expand,
compressing the rust, and you can screw it out.
I had torched off some bolts that held the rear bumper on my pickup. It
wasn't until after I did it that I realized that one bolt on each side
actually threaded into the frame. I welded on nuts, and shazam - I was able
to wrench them out.
>From: "Steve & Jeanne Keith" <cckw@attbi.com>
>To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
>Subject: Re: [MV] Removal of broken exhaust manifold bolt
>Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 18:35:56 -0400
>
>This is an M151 'feature.....'
>
>If you just don't want it to leak, go to the autoparts store and get a
>broken exhaust manifild bolt clamp (or whatever they call it). You
>can just clamp between the lower portion of the manifold and the
>top of head boss area over the strap. I did this for a few years
>with my M151A2. As a matter of fact, I eventually had one on each
>end. They only work on the ends. I finally blew one in the middle and
>the clamp won't work there due to clearance. I went out and bought
>a new M151A2 head with the larger bosses. My head was an earlier
>one.
>
>Steve AKA Dr Deuce
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Fred Martin" <mung@in-touch.net>
>To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
>Sent: Friday, April 25, 2003 6:19 PM
>Subject: Re: [MV] Removal of broken exhaust manifold bolt
>
>
> > Michael...as a machinist (if that helps)...you might have to take off
> > the manifold and if you are lucky...maybe enough of it is sticking out
> > for you to use a liberal amount of penetrating oil (read..a few days)
> > and be sure and tap on it several times (this helps the penetrant get in
> > to more area...the vibration thing) before you attempt it with your vice
> > grips. Just try to wiggle it...not screw it right out. Wiggle and add
> > more penetrant and tap...then if it moves some...get a little
> > braver...go some more. If none of this works or if you twist it off back
> > in the hole...all is not lost. You can take a piece of flat
> > iron...should be about one inch thick (use a drill press for
> > this...straight true hole) to help hold it on center and drill a tap
> > drill size hole in one end and in the other end a clearance hole for the
> > nearest threaded hole near it and carefully line the tap drilled hole
> > over the broken off bolt hole and tighten a bolt in the other end to
> > hold it on center and drill it out with a electric drill If you don't
> > have room to do all that because of space...consider cutting the twist
> > drill off to a shorter length and resharpening it. Sacrificing one drill
> > is no biggie. Another way is to weld a nut on the stub of a bolt
> > sticking out...let it cool so the weld will solidify good and try
> > it...sometimes the heat of this will expand the bolt some and contract
> > upon cooling and break loose the scudgies that are holding it. Now...you
> > are as smart as I am on this job and it's all MV related guys. Fred
>Martin
> >
> > Michael wrote:
> > > Howdy list,
> > > I opened the hood to my M151A2 today and I noticed that the rear
>Exhaust
> > > manifold bolt had been sheared off, leaving a piece of the bolt in the
> > > cylinder head. My question is how do I go about getting the bolt out,
>what
> > > size is it, can it be drilled & tapped, what size? Is there a danger
>of
> > > breaking the cylinder head? Taking it to a good mechanic isn't an
>option
>as
> > > I live out in the sticks, or "way past the sticks", and I don't have
>the
> > > money for that, anyway.
> > > Thanks,
> > > Mike
> > >
> > >
> > >
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> > >
> >
> >
> >
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> >
>
>
>
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