From: D O (dohe69@hotmail.com)
Date: Thu Oct 02 2003 - 19:44:48 PDT
The switch I used is rated at 250 A continuous, and will take 1000 amps for
I forget how long but it is much, much longer than the batteries would be
able to crank the engine. 2500 amps for 5 seconds.
If you just want to disable the starter switch, it is an easy job. I chose
to kill the entire truck for a few reasons. One, to prevent my stupidity
from leaving me stranded by leaving the lights or blower switch on. This is
the main reason :-). Two, to prevent a malfunctioning switch or electrical
component run the batteries dead and leave me stranded. Three, to be able
to shut everything down in an instant in case of a problem. Another reason
is theft deterrent. Yeah, this ground switch can be bypassed, but where it
is located it is harder to get to than to duck under the right front wheel
well and jumper the starter solenoid. Also, eventually someone is going to
be checking out my truck and flip some switch on without my knowledge. I
don't normally let kids (of any age) use the truck as a playground, but its
good PR for MV'ers to show your truck, and if there is 2 people, there is 1
too many to watch 100%.
Even with the ground switch, I still want to put a keyed switch in the dash
for additional theft deterrent/complexity, as well as to be able to disable
the starter switch to prevent me or someone else from hitting the switch
with engine running. Just my paranoia. But this would be the easiest to do
if someone just wanted to prevent activation of the starter button, as it is
the lowest current circuit in the system. Next step is after the engine
mounted starter solenoid. The step after that is between that solenoid and
the starter mounted solenoid.
>From: James Shanks <n1vbn@bit-net.com>
>To: "D O" <dohe69@hotmail.com>, "Military Vehicles Mailing List"
><mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
>Subject: Re: [MV] M35A2 positive batt. cable
>Date: Thu, 02 Oct 2003 22:00:48 -0400
>
>
>You don't want to wire the battery switch the way you described. From the
>starter motor terminal you should find heavy wires that feed power from the
>batteries to the starter motor, attached to the same terminal you should
>see a couple of slightly lighter size wire's. One is the accessory power
>wire and the other is the alternator wire that feeds power from the
>alternator to charge the batteries and provide power to the truck. So make
>sure you don't accidently put the switch in-line with the alternator that
>feed 24 volt power to the accessory switch and the light switch. Trace them
>and you should easily be able to tell which is which. Disconnect the
>accessory power wire from the starter terminal and connect your battery
>switch to this wire and from the battery switch back to the starter
>terminal. The idea is when you shut off the battery switch the truck is
>dead to anyone trying to start it via the starter button in the cab. If you
>install it correctly the starter terminal is hot with 24 volts 24/7. If
>you try to start the truck with the battery switch where you described it
>below you will rather quickly fry the battery switch as the starter current
>is well over 400-600 Amps. I drive a civilian dump truck and all of our
>trucks have battery switches and they are all installed as I described
>above
>
>
>At 06:52 PM 9/30/2003 +0000, D O wrote:
>>I am not sure what size it is, but I put a ground disconnect switch on
>>mine to kill power to the entire truck (except the solargizers which are
>>hardwired to the batts). I used 00 welding cable and crimped/soldered the
>>eyelets on them. Try weldingdepot.com or weldingsupply.com for cable, but
>>you would have to put on your own eyelets.
>>
>>
>>>From: AVarvarigo@aol.com
>>>To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
>>>Subject: [MV] M35A2 positive batt. cable
>>>Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 12:16:39 -0400
>>>
>>>Hi guys, anyone knows the gauge thickness of the positive battery cable,
>>>coming out of the battery terminal itself, and going to the starter etc?
>>>I want to get a short jumper of the same thickness in order to put a cut
>>>off switch in line with it.
>>>In fact I would appreciate any recommendations to places I can get the
>>>short cable from.
>>>The cable has to have eyelets on both ends and the shorter the better.
>>>Thank you, Tony V. (avarvarigo@aol.com)
>>>
>>>===Mil-Veh is a member-supported mailing list===
>>>To unsubscribe, send e-mail to: <mil-veh-off@mil-veh.org>
>>>To switch to the DIGEST mode, send e-mail to <mil-veh-digest@mil-veh.org>
>>>To reach a human, contact <ack@mil-veh.org>
>>
>>_________________________________________________________________
>>Share your photos without swamping your Inbox. Get Hotmail Extra Storage
>>today! http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es
>>
>>
>>===Mil-Veh is a member-supported mailing list===
>>To unsubscribe, send e-mail to: <mil-veh-off@mil-veh.org>
>>To switch to the DIGEST mode, send e-mail to <mil-veh-digest@mil-veh.org>
>>To reach a human, contact <ack@mil-veh.org>
>
>James Shanks
>n1vbn@bit-net.com
>1998 IMZ 8.103
>1984 H-D FLHT-C
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
High-speed Internet access as low as $29.95/month (depending on the local
service providers in your area). Click here. https://broadband.msn.com
This archive was generated by hypermail 2.1.4 : Sat May 07 2005 - 20:25:00 PDT