From: Steve & Jeanne Keith (cckw@comcast.net)
Date: Wed Oct 08 2003 - 17:11:31 PDT
You will find that trying to do something as large as a door will be almost
impossible in a cabinet. I have a TIP cabinet and use it ocassionally. I
use paint stripper normally and only blast things that are rusty or pitted.
You will find a non-cabinet pressure blaster will do things so much fast
that you will wonder whay you bought a cabinet. The cabinets use
the siphon feed system. It is very slow and every 20 seconds or so, you
have to stop and put your finger over the nozzel and quickly step on the
pedal to force a little air thru the hose to clear it. With a pressure unit,
you
just pull the trigger and go.
You might want to consider making a portable unit that with tarps that you
can get in with your item.
My experience. YMMV
Steve AKA Dr Deuce
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul A. Thomas" <bluewhale@jaxkneppers.com>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2003 8:04 PM
Subject: [MV] Blasting Cabinet use on a Deuce
> A few months ago, the list was kind enough to steer me toward two
> manufacturers of sand blasting cabinets. I've put enough aside to
actually
> order one now, and have decided on the Skat Blast units from
TPTOOLS.COM...
> however I was out measuring the doors on my deuce and find they are 29"
> tall and probably 2.x inches deep. I was wondering if the height
> measurement in such cabinets was absolute, or if I might be able to work
on
> the doors ( sans glass, etc ) if I put them in at an angle? Most of the
> mid size units ( especially the ones which go on sale ) have a height
> limitation of 28".
>
> Convnetional wisdom claims size doesn't matter, but I'd probably have to
> jump off my roof if I found I had bought such a unit and came up an inch
> short.
>
> I won't go into politics ( hey, at least we don't have a WWF champion for
> governor! <g> ) but do have another MV Q: I had hoped to restore my truck
> to original condition as when the county FD was done altering it. However
> the engine just sucks. The plug wires were/are generic plug wires with
> 'LEE' press on nails.. er, wire caps on them. The wires have 4 or 5 thin
> silver strands of metal in the middle, which you splay out manually once
> you use pliers to clip on the end of the wire. I'm thinking I might get a
> little more power if I used good plug wires, but have no idea what the
> terminology is. Are they like speaker wires for a stereo? The gold
wiring
> is better, the thicker the core the better? Or would you lose some power
if
> the metal core was too wide as there was not enough power to push the amps
> or whatever? I don't want to go crazy thinking I have a 454 under the
> hood, but am hoping better plugs/harness and a good tuning can keep the
> engine from stalling when I try to reverse up the hill in my back yard.
>
>
> Many thanks for any thoughts ( about the truck: I for one Like Ahnold, and
> if he listens to Warren Buffet then good things will probably happen here:
> Can't get a lot worse. I ran into a cute girl at a local Petco who used
to
> own her own Fiber Optic Cable company- things went south in the industry,
> now she is doing what she loves, training dogs, instead. I wonder if my
10
> year old cattle dog would mind being trained again... :} )
>
>
>
> Paul
> MVPA# 24986
> '53 REO M35 Fire Conversion
> '53 AEC Chevy 3/4 Ton
>
>
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