From: David Cole (DavidCole@tk7.net)
Date: Thu Oct 16 2003 - 16:57:51 PDT
That should work, just make sure you have at least #10 wire running to the
compressor for a 5 hp compressor use a 30 amp breaker for #10. Heavier
wire, like #8 would be even better. It's best to run compressors at 220
vac and above since they draw a lot of current when they first start up.
(Whereas your dryer does not) You will probably notice the lights dim a
bit when it kicks in. Make sure your breaker is functional. Some old
breakers just don't work and you won't find out until it is too late. You
might even want to consider running another line to the compressor and put
another new breaker in the box if you have space. Copper wire is pretty
cheap now. That way when the old lady turns on the dryer, you won't pop
the breaker when the compressor kicks in. (;->) If you aren't comfortable
working with power circuits, find someone who can help you. I ran my 5 hp
compressor off a 100 amp service for years before I moved. The wiring in
my house was upgraded, but the power company would not run new wires to the
house even though they were overhead. The wires were so old, that the
fabric insulation had long since fallen off.
Good Luck,
Dave
On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 20:47:15 -0700, Paul A. Thomas
<bluewhale@jaxkneppers.com> wrote:
> Jeez. . My entire house/garage is on a 90 amp service!! ( Originally
> built in the middle of WWII, upgraded from 60 amps some years ago ) I
> wonder if I could even run a pump which needs 220-240 here. Would a 15-
> 20 CFM electric motor compressor pull much more amperage than an electric
> dryer? I was considering having the dryer line extended within the
> garage, then running either one or the other at a time.
>
>
> Many thanks, once again.
>
>
> paul
>
> ***********************************************************
>
>
> At 10:09 PM 10/15/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>> Hey, I understand. You have to take what everyone else says and figure
>> out what works for you.
>>
>> I don't live in the city, so using a large pressure blaster outside is
>> not a big deal. If I was in the city with a small lot, everything would
>> be different.
>>
>> I blasted for a couple years with my 5 hp compressor alone. It ran a
>> 1/8 tip ok. But when you can generate 30+ cfm, it makes a big
>> difference in productivity.
>>
>> I have a 100 amp service to my garage and can run that 10 hp air
>> compressor with a phase converter - no problem. I've never popped the
>> breaker. I've even run the 5 hp compressor at the same time, again no
>> problem.
>>
>> Good Luck whatever way you decide to go.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>> On Tue, 14 Oct 2003 21:27:54 -0700, Paul A. Thomas
>> <bluewhale@jaxkneppers.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Dave:
>>>
>>> Thanks for your break-down. You, Steve G and half a dozen others all
>>> seem to give similar advice based on experience with multiple
>>> approaches and makes. To all of those who gave advice like this I
>>> appreciate the @#%@# of it: however I need a solution which allows me
>>> to come home from OT at work, fire up and clean XXX parts and not spend
>>> time setting up, tearing down, cleaning up, loading media. Not to
>>> mention my friendly neighbor..
>>> If I win the Lotto ( no disrespect intended ) I plan on kicking back,
>>> and going to auction after auction. In the mean time, one makes do.
>>> The suggestion I read earlier about getting all the power I could from
>>> my compressor when I buy it sounds right on: whatever my house's
>>> service will take is what I will price.
>>> Now to get busy before the local authorities realize I'm doing
>>> reconstructive work here!
>>>
>>> Thanks again.
>>>
>>> Paul
>>>
>>> ***********************************************************
>>>
>>>
>>> At 10:56 PM 10/14/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>>>> I'm partial to Quincy cast iron compressors or similar. The run slow
>>>> and produce more air CFM per hp that most other compressors. Also,
>>>> they are made to run continously (at least the heavier models are) and
>>>> then can run that way all day and not overheat.
>>>>
>>>> Warning: A real 5 hp motor draws about 22-24 amps at 230 volts single
>>>> phase. Sears and several others lie about their hp ratings. I don't
>>>> know how they can do that but they do. To make 5 hp, you need about
>>>> 24 amps at 230 volts, there is no magic way to get around that fact.
>>>> It takes about 1000 va (volts times amps) of input power to produce 1
>>>> hp of shaft power for small electric motors.
>>>>
>>>> I have a real 5 hp air compressor with an old Westinghouse Cast iron
>>>> two stage head. It works fine for running air tools and sprayers.
>>>> However when it comes to blasting, even a real 5 hp compressor comes
>>>> up short.
>>>> I have a 10 HP 3 phase air compressor that I run off a homemade rotary
>>>> phase converter to produce air for blasting. It has a large Quincy 2
>>>> Stage cast iron heat that must weigh 150-200 lbs by itself. The pump
>>>> is rated at 36 cfm. Everything is mounted on a 120 gallon tank. I
>>>> bought the compressor complete (less magnetic starter and controls)
>>>> for $250.
>>>> The guy just wanted to get rid of it. I hauled it home and in just a
>>>> couple of hours I had it running. A couple of years ago, I bought a
>>>> second Quincy Compressor but with a single stage head that is rated at
>>>> 34 CFM with no motor and a 120 gallon tank for $100. I have a Linsay
>>>> 200 lb pressure pot that works well. Lindsay went out of business
>>>> about two years ago, so parts are a bit hard to find, but it's a good
>>>> pot.
>>>>
>>>> The 10 hp Quincy compressor can run a new 3/16 nozzle at 90 PSI not
>>>> quite continously. I can blast for about 10 minutes and then rest for
>>>> 2 and that works fine. The rest period allows the compressor to catch
>>>> up and refill the 120 gallon tank. I end up moving stuff around every
>>>> 10-15 minutes anyway it seems so not being able to blast continously
>>>> is really not a problem.
>>>>
>>>> The guy on that site mentioned using Silica sand. I think that is a
>>>> waste of time and money. Black Beauty or the equivalent furnace slag
>>>> blasting media is a lot faster than silica sand and it is much, much
>>>> safer. (Read - more metal blasted for less $) IMO, that guy on the
>>>> web site used the wrong equipment. Spending 5 weeks of 10 hours days
>>>> blasting two vehicles! My blaster chews through about 200 lbs of sand
>>>> in about 30-40 minutes. But you can cover a lot of metal in 30
>>>> minutes.
>>>>
>>>> My recommendation is to skip Sears all together. Look up sandblasting
>>>> equipment in the yellow pages. Visit a commercial supplier of sand
>>>> blast equipment and see what they have. Perhaps they have some used
>>>> stuff they want to get rid of? Look for auctions, plant closings
>>>> (they are happening all over the midwest!), and pickup a nice two
>>>> stage compressor that can put out the air. You can run a 1/8 nozzle
>>>> off a real 5 hp compressor, but you need to take breaks to allow it to
>>>> catch up.
>>>>
>>>> If I had to blast a duece and I had no equipment, I'd probably rent a
>>>> gas or diesel compressor and a sand pot and buy about 1000 lbs of sand
>>>> and go to it. That equipment can easily get the job done in a day.
>>>> If you buy a Sears 5 hp compressor (really about 3 hp) and a cheap
>>>> siphon blaster, you could spend a week or more blasting the same
>>>> truck.
>>>>
>>>> Dave
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Tue, 14 Oct 2003 16:10:30 -0700, Paul A. Thomas
>>>> <bluewhale@jaxkneppers.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> This list is great! I have received the opinions of perhaps two
>>>>> dozen listers regarding their thoughts and experiences with different
>>>>> types of abrasive blasting and the manufacturers of the equipment.
>>>>> Based on what I can do now and those suggestions, I'm going to buy a
>>>>> Skat 960 cabinet soon.
>>>>>
>>>>> However my 9 month old portable air compressor is not up to the job,
>>>>> not even with a small carbide tip on the gun. When I have no other
>>>>> idea what to do I usually go to Sears and see what they have, then
>>>>> buy what I need ( hopefully ). Could anyone give me their thoughts
>>>>> on brand and type of air compressor to look at for this? I found a
>>>>> number of opinions about blasting and air compressors on line, but
>>>>> found this one echoed what listers were saying closely so thought to
>>>>> TRY to use his recommendations..
>>>>>
>>>>> http://www.speedprint.com/Deves50/Sandblasting.html
>>>>>
>>>>> However I'm not going to be doing anywhere near the volume he does,
>>>>> so am currently considering a Sears unit with an 80 Gal tank, a 7
>>>>> horse two stage engine, 240 volt. Puts out 16-18 CFM at 100-175 PSI.
>>>>> Overkill perhaps for the blasting cabinet, but I also will be using a
>>>>> pressurized gun on parts of the trucks which will not fit into the
>>>>> cabinet, so the extra power will probably come in handy.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for all of the responses. I don't like spending money, but
>>>>> when I have to do it I really dislike wasting it on something that
>>>>> doesn't work well. :}
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Paul
>>>>> MVPA# 24986
>>>>> '53 REO M35 Fire Conversion
>>>>> '53 AEC Chevy 3/4 Ton
>>>>> www.paulathomas.com/images
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> ===Mil-Veh is a member-supported mailing list===
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>>>>> veh.org>
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>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Dave
>>>
>>>
>>> ===Mil-Veh is a member-supported mailing list===
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>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Dave
>
>
> ===Mil-Veh is a member-supported mailing list===
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>
-- Dave
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