From: James Shanks (n1vbn@arrl.net)
Date: Fri Apr 02 2004 - 02:55:37 PST
Cliff,
I presume your requesting help on the Multi-fuel engine? If so
read on.
The problem you are having is not new. The fix may take one to
several days. It happens because the truck sat around without being run
(the engine) for a long time and no oil got to where it needs to be. Go to
your local auto parts store and buy a good "rust buster" aerosol can. If
the can also has some lubricating qualities this would be good. Follow the
shutdown cable to the fuel distributor and it should go to a cover with two
large screws or bolts holding a cover on the side of the fuel
distributor. Remove cover with the cable attached. Inside you will see a
small lever approximately 1/2 inch in length pointing down at the ground
that has a range of motion from left to right of around 45 degrees or so
this lever IS THE THROTTLE AND CONTROLS THE FUEL INJECTED ON COMMAND FROM
THE GOVERNOR AT THE OTHER END OF THE ROD, attached to this lever is a small
rod that runs horizontally to the right into governor portion of the fuel
pump assembly. Attach the little itty bitty red plastic line to the spray
nozzle and liberally spray into the governor assembly lets say a good 30
second blast in there, also coat the little lever. That small lever
connect's to a small geared ring inside the fuel distributor (the part with
the fuel injector lines attached 6 of em) and is what controls the amount
of fuel injected into each cylinder. BE CAREFUL NOT TO BEND THE ROD OR
LEVER. When everything is correct that small lever should be moved very
easily by one finger (RONZO, HELP ME HERE PLEASE) if I remember correctly
it is spring loaded and should when released snap back to the idle
position. DO NOT MOVE THIS LITTLE LEVER WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING AS YOU
COULD OVERSPEED ENGINE!! When you are ready to start the engine this
little lever should move very freely and SNAP back to the idle position.
Don't even think about running the engine if it doesn't snap back freely.
Ronzo had the same problem you are having and this is what we did
to free it up. It took Ronzo with a small nutdriver style 2 inch long tool
that just fit over the rod end that came out of the lever to move it slowly
back and forth with great resistance while spraying into the governor end
until it finally freed up and started snapping back slowly. 30 minutes
later it was snapping back and moving with our little pinky finger with no
resistance whatsoever. The we started it and it worked fine.
Be aware this could take you 45 minutes to fix or 4 or 5 days but
short of removing the fuel pump and spending a few hundred dinero to have
it rebuilt this procedure should work fine so long as you remind yourself
(it will run...it will run...it will run)
Having a friend around to mumble at/with also helps lots.
James Shanks
At 11:30 PM 3/30/2004, Cliff S wrote:
>Esteemed mechanics and listers full of knowledge;
>
>This is for a '71 AMGen M35A2 W/W
>
>If you remember back I got the M35 from GovLiq with an injector pump that
>had been placed back on the truck just so it wouldnt fall off. Towed it
>home and have worked on it for about 2 1/2 weeks now getting to todays
>point. And here it is:
>
>I finally worked out all the bugs to get to the point today where the fuel
>is on, power is hot, time is right, and the deuce turns over smoothly and
>lights right off!!!! YES I HAVE DONE IT!! "ITS ALIVE!!!, ITS
>ALIVE!!!" (in that ghoulish laugh). Well low and behold I can not keep
>the RPM below the ozone either. Immeadiately after I hit the starter it
>revs right up, good and bad at the same time. It starts right up,
>good. Keeps going up, up and up, thats bad, right? My Friend and I have
>the block of wood handy to keep it from exploding on us, and keep it from
>going above about 2500 RPM so far. I have cranked it over numerous times
>before today to get the oil around all the parts so Im really not worried
>about bearing wear YET. We lit is off 4 times and it does the same thing
>each time, through the roof and we stop it before it gets too far. The
>"pull to stop" works very well, thank you very much. I hav! e toned down
>the fuel delivery screw to show only 3 threads. But the "PTS" stays in
>the Off position and must be manually reset to get it to light again, just
>real sticky- about 10-15 lbs pressure to get it back. Not normal I know,
>but Im working on it too.
>
>So, what Im asking for is a few things:
>
>1- anyone got a injector pump really cheap?
>
>2- anyone have any ideas as to why it goes ballistic?
>
>3- how can I stop it from going ballistic and get a normal operation out
>of my pump?
>
>Any advice, tricks, "hey I remember this one time" stories, and good ole
>mechanical knowledge is what Im looking for. Please keep all the
>references to TM's, Pubs, TB's and all that I have them and its not gonna
>help here, I seriously doubt. I am trying to get the pump spec'ed out at
>work (still a Marine) through the Calibration lab. But if you can tell me
>what to look for in this old take off pump I would greatly appreciate it all!!
>
>Thanks in advance for all the good gouge!
>
>
>Cliff Smith
>'71 AMG M35A2
>'77 M880
>'68 M274A5
>'?? M416 (Flatbed)
>2x 6K Gens
>MVPA #26244
>
>
>----------
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>To reach a human, contact
James Shanks
n1vbn@arrl.net
1998 IMZ 8.103
1984 H-D FLHT-C
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