From: David Cole (DavidCole@tk7.net)
Date: Fri May 28 2004 - 12:41:01 PDT
If you go with tinted industrial enamel - you can also use hardener to get
the paint to set faster - that a big deal if you are shooting paint
outside. I have seen industrial paint set in about an hour with the proper
level of hardener - I use 1/2 pint to 1 gallon of paint. Once you do it
you will never want to use industrial paint without hardener again. It's
that much better.
Use a charcoal mask if you use hardener. Yeah they are expensive - about
$20 for a throwaway - but have you priced lungs recently?
Another tip - Use duct tape to mask off lights/glass while sandblasting.
Tape over openings before sand blasting - unless you want the opening full
of sand.
Finally - I have had overspray go 60 feet in the right conditions. Don't
paint when it's windy unless you really hate your neighbor who is downwind
and you think everthing downwind would look better green anyway.
Dave
On Thu, 27 May 2004 16:51:52 -0700, Greg <czechsix@cox.net> wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "FireflyArms" <info@fireflyarms.com>
> To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
> Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2004 4:29 PM
> Subject: [MV] Home Painting Deuce?
>
>
>> Summer is here and I think I'm finally going to have some time to work
> with
>> my M35. It could really use a paint job! The OD greens don't all match
>> and
>> there's even some blue showing in spots.
>>
>> How realistic is it to think I can paint this thing at home?
>
> Do it! If I can do it, anyone can.
>>
>> I have a compressor, spray gun, and sandblaster. I figured I'd just go
>> around and clean up any rust (either sanding or sandblasting), smooth
>> everything else out with some sandpaper, tape of the "non-painted"
>> parts,
>> and spray away. I'd also take off the easy things like mirrors
>> separately.
>
> Hell, you've got more equipment than I did when I painted my first truck.
> The method that you're thinking about is basically what I did - except I
> didn't go too crazy with sanding. I just got the loose stuff off and put
> a
> top coat on that would make it look like one color.
>
>>
>> Also I'd rather not have to send off for paint. Is there a color/brand
> that
>> is close to the modern OD green that can be found at the local NAPA?
>
> Even though I didn't do it with the deuce (I used the Zero Rust that
> Cliff
> S. turned me on to), I used an industrial coating for a really rough
> Unimog
> that I once had. It was basically a field truck, and was going to be
> scratched all the time, so I airless gunned it with a color matched
> industrial paint from a company out here called Frazee. That stuff was
> great! Took a couple of months to harden, but once it did nothing touched
> it. From what I recall it was only 20 or so bucks a gallon.
>
> You can always take a chip off of the CARC and take it to any paint store
> to
> have it color matched. That would probably be the cheapest way, other
> than
> living close by one of the Gillespie dealers. If you do, I'd take the
> Gillespie.....good paint, low price. But if you have to ship it the UPS
> hazmat charges will kill you.
>
> Have fun!
>
> Greg
>>
>> Thanks for any tips or tricks!
>>
>> Sam B.
>> http://www.fireflyarms.com
>>
>>
>>
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>>
>
>
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>
-- Dave
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