From: Wayne Harris (papercu@hotmail.com)
Date: Sun Jun 20 2004 - 09:29:01 PDT
While doing a search on the" Gibbs " I found a new toy from the UK
http://www.aquada.co.uk/gibbstech/hsaapps_humdinga.htm o yeah and I found a
link to the GIBBS but the stuff sounds like it should have its own late
night TV ad/show. Heck it even double as a starting fluid but at $17.95( I
did find some a little cheaper) a can I'll have to pass. I've also tried
the PB Blaster(6.00 a can local) but I can't say it worked any better that
the other stuff for the things I use it on. Your use may vary. And on why do
you heat the screw/bolt/nut instead of the surrounding area, it depend on
what you want to save, when you get it that hot you temper the metal which
makes it harder but it also makes it more fragile in most cases and if you
are going to throw the screw/bolt/nut away.... Wayne
>From: "Ida Heath" <spike@defuniak.com>
>To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
>Subject: Re: [MV] Brake drum problem, penetrating lubricant
>Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2004 11:24:21 -0500
>
>Ever try "Gibbs"? Its the only product awarded/given a patent as a
>penetrate in the United States. All that other stuff ie, WD 40, kroil, PB
>Blaster, etc is nothing more than kerosene under pressure.
>
>Sonny
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: D O <dohe69@hotmail.com>
>To: Military Vehicles Mailing List <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
>Sent: Saturday, June 19, 2004 9:59 AM
>Subject: Re: [MV] Brake drum problem, penetrating lubricant
>
>
> > For any job dealing with rusty fasteners, there's some stuff called PB
> > Blaster that can't be beat, in my opinion. It has a goofy looking label
> > that is yellow, white, and red in color with some various scribblings.
> >
> >
> >
> > >From: "Ida Heath" <spike@defuniak.com>
> > >To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
> > >Subject: Re: [MV] [eu_mil_veh] Re: Brake drum problem
> > >Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2004 08:00:51 -0500
> > >
> > >Noel,
> > >
> > >If I understand what you're talking about, why would you heat the bolt
> > >instead of the area around it? Dosen't heat expand metal?
> > >
> > >Sonny
> > >
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: noel shelley <noel@shelley1722.freeserve.co.uk>
> > >To: Military Vehicles Mailing List <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
> > >Sent: Saturday, June 19, 2004 4:29 AM
> > >Subject: Re: [MV] [eu_mil_veh] Re: Brake drum problem
> > >
> > >
> > > > Hi Cor ,
> > > > First try using a small 1/2 lb ball pein hammer and
>sharply
> > >hit
> > > > the head of the screw a few times after a good squirt of wd40 or
> > >similar.
> > > > this may loosen the screw . then try a screw driver . If that doesn`
>t
> > >work
> > > > then use a small chisel 1/4" or 3/8" wide ,no bigger and try to
>drive
> > >the
> > > > screw round by the head using the small hammer , this usually works
>.
> > > > Before drilling try some heat , gas welding nozzle is best , you
>only
> > >want
> > > > to heat the bolt if you can ! Redose with wd40 then repeat the above
>.
> > >The
> > > > thermal shock will often break the rust .
> > > > If you must resort to a drill use one slightly bigger than the screw
>,
> > >the
> > > > hardest part is getting the drill started in the middle . once the
>drill
> > >has
> > > > cut to the stem of the screw the head will spin free and stop you
> > >drilling
> > > > down the thread , the drum can be removed and then the vise grips or
>a
> > >drill
> > > > will remove the rest . If drilling out check the core size of the
>bolt
> > >and
> > > > drill that size , then pick out the spiral of thread, BUT
>concentricity
> > >is
> > > > vital .
> > > >
> > > > IF you have arc welding gear or MIG then simply weld a small piece
>of
> > >bar
> > >or
> > > > an old bolt on to the head , the heat will do no harm and also break
>the
> > > > rust on the thread , then simple unscrew .
> > > >
> > > > Good luck Noel
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