From: Horrocks, Aaron (ACHb@pge.com)
Date: Fri Jul 23 2004 - 12:33:33 PDT
Depending which electrical theory you follow... Most people will agree that the electrons flow from Positive (+) to Negative (-) in a DC system. A positive ground keeps the frame and body of a vehicle connected right up to the battery terminal, effectively making it part of the battery. So the metal of the vehicle is energized or charged on a very small degree. (There's more electrons present then there would be without the positive ground). Depending on the electricity (usually 12VDC) and metallurgy, this will either promote or prohibit the metal from joining with other particles, or atoms... Like oxygen, which can cause the vehicle to rust!
This is, however, all based on theories and mechanic's tales. I have set to see first hand evidence of this, or read any experiments that prove or disprove it.
Aaron Horrocks
Sr. Electrical Engineering Estimator
Livermore Office
achb@pge.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Military Vehicles Mailing List [mailto:mil-veh@mil-veh.org]On
Behalf Of kuhrick
Sent: Friday, July 23, 2004 12:08 PM
To: Military Vehicles Mailing List
Subject: Re: [MV] 12-volt conversion questions
i don't see the neg/pos ground doing much
i have converted tractors and fork lifts too 12 volt with mid 1070s
alt. with built in regulators
butt they didn't have to look 6 volt they had to start wane needed
that alt. can have a 1 wire voltage regulator in them if you ask for it
that alt only needs the battery wire not a wire to power the regulator
the cucv's have same alt in them but 2-3 wire
and no ground so with a one wire regulator in it you can ground
it like you what i was thinking of using one on my m886 for a 12+12 make
24 volt system
ken m886
kb9yku
At 11:28 AM 7/23/2004, Colin M Rush wrote:
>For those that do not already know, I have the care of an IHC M-5H-6.
>After spending 4 days driving it around several weeks ago, we have
>decided that a 12-volt conversion is in order. 6-volt works great when
>it is first started, but after if gets hot and tight, it takes about 30
>to 40 tries before the engine cranks over enough to catch. We jumped it
>once or twice with a 12V battery, and it popped right off. When
>researching this for a 1941 Chev truck I was working on, I had asked
>around several years ago at a local shop called Willamette Electric that
>rebuilds generators and alternators and starters (they are now out of
>business, thank you NAFTA), and they had told me that the generators and
>starters were built heavy enough that they could withstand being used in
>a 12V system. We also will need to rewire it, since the old wiring has
>been cobbled up and is painted over with Navy surplus paint and all of
>the color codes are gone. Anyway, I would like to keep it looking
>original if possible. One thing that I am worried about is the voltage
>regulator. It is a large Delco unit, with a removeable aluminum can held
>on with two thumbscrews. Can that work with 12 volts? If not, is there
>another one that looks the same from a newer application that I can
>install? Again, I would like it to look 'right'. If not, I may just
>install one of the more typical 'black box' regulators like the passenger
>cars and trucks used up into the early 1970s, and put that inside the
>larger aluminum can of the old box. If anyone has any input on this, I
>would appreciate hearing it. Also, does anyone have any suggestions for
>a solid-state version of one of these that will work?
> Also, the same truck is a positive ground vehicle. I had heard
>that this was a bad thing on some newer aluminum-bodied vehicles, causing
>corrosion. Is this something I need to change, or should I just not
>worry about it?
>-Colin Rush
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