From: Alex (alex@glx.net)
Date: Sun Sep 26 2004 - 20:18:38 PDT
On mine, when you drop the canister of the primary filter housing, you
are holding the assembly that contains the filter cartridge. If you
remove the cartridge you will see a brass colored little cup on the
center bolt. This cup, with a spring, washer and seal behind it, seals
around the bottom of the cartridge and pushes it up into the canister
top assembly (the part mounted on the truck frame). If this cup is
installed the wrong way, the fuel will bypass the element. BTW the
proper filter is manufactured by Marvel Engineering (708-343-4090) and
is part number M-3962. I think there are other surplus dealers that have
if for less than the $38.00 Marvel is asking. My advise is don't use the
cheap cork ended filters... they don't fit properly.
-----Original Message-----
From: Sonny Heath [mailto:sonny@defuniak.com]
Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2004 9:42 PM
To: Alex
Subject: Re: [MV] Duce won't run after fuel filters changed...
Alex,
I'm about ready to do the same thing you just did and I'm wondering what
you
mean by the lower cup for the primary filter was upside down? Are you
talking about the housing for the filter or what as I can't picture the
possibility of installing that upside down.
Thanks,
Sonny
----- Original Message -----
From: Alex <alex@glx.net>
To: Military Vehicles Mailing List <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2004 9:25 PM
Subject: [MV] Duce won't run after fuel filters changed...
> The story started a little over two weeks ago. In a fit of
preventative
> maintenance, I thought I should change all the fuel filters. Having
only
> had the truck a couple of months and having driven it less that 100
> miles since I received it from the DRMO, I wanted to make sure it will
> be ready for winter. Oil filters and oil changed the week before, I
> thought I was up to the task. things are never as straight forward as
> they first appear.
>
> Went down to the local NAPA with all the numbers found on various
places
> on the net and bought the filters. Parked the truck in a nice handy
> place to work on it and went to work. Guess what, the great looking
> filters, both primary and secondary that came out, didn't look
anything
> like the cork ended filters that came out of the NAPA boxes. After
> careful examination of the replacement filters, I concluded that yes,
> they would fit in the canisters, but they were a far cry from the fit
> and quality of what came out. (The filter hunt is a topic for another
> post.) Two weeks later my new OEM filters arrived and I was looking
> forward to a 30 minute task to get things going again.
>
> Before I go much further, I'll mention two items that might have some
> bearing on my current problem.
>
> 1) The truck always ran great, on those short trips I made, but tended
> to start hard. It took about 3 tries of about 5-7 seconds of cranking
> before it caught.
> 2) Whoever last replaced the primary filter put the lower cup on
upside
> down. This means the fuel was bypassing the element.
>
> OK, I put everything back together (with the primary cup properly
> installed) and installed 3 new filters.
>
> Opened up the bleeder on top of the secondary filters, turned on the
> switch, (dammed buzzer) and waited... and waited... and waited...
and...
> You get the picture. I could see the air bubble slowly move up on the
> clear input side of the secondary replace by fuel but nothing ever
came
> out of the bleeder. I even opened the drain wing nut on the bottom of
> the second filter... no fuel! Listened at the fuel tank and could hear
a
> whirring sound. The dammed truck ran 3 weeks ago when I turned it off!
>
> OK I'm stumped. Can the truck run with a bad or very low output fuel
> pump... is that how it was running. Did putting the primary filter
> together correctly cause it to stop working? There seemed to be fuel
> flowing at the primary filter input when I removed the pipe and turned
> the switch on... but I didn't measure the pressure. Does anyone know
how
> much pressure I should have at the input of the secondary filters? How
> about at the tank? Could there be something that is causing the fuel
> shutoff to be not opening at the injector pump? I can see the plunger
> move when the handle in the cab is pulled.
>
> If I have to get to the tank pump... can this be done with the M35 box
> in place, or do I have to drop the tank?
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Alex
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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