From: Marc Strangfeld (curlyjoe98@yahoo.com)
Date: Thu Oct 21 2004 - 00:57:03 PDT
Bjorn
I just noticed your post today and got a kick out of
it. The term "destructive testing" came to mind. I
think your experience is typical if not better than
any fording done with these trucks. The opportunities
for leaks are too numerous to avoid them all. You
ought to be proud, I can't keep the fluids in my truck
let alone keep water and muck out.
Marc
--- Jeffrey Cerniglia <jcerniglia@msn.com> wrote:
>
> So in your opinion, how much of this was from lack
> of preparation and how
> much was from just unavoidale due to fording??
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Cerniglia
> Bristol Ct
> 1954 M211
>
>
>
> >From: "Bjorn Brandstedt" <super_deuce@hotmail.com>
> >To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List"
> <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
> >Subject: [MV] Fording aftermath
> >Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2004 07:49:19 -0400
> >
> >Morning,
> >
> >Driving through a dip filled with some 4 feet of
> water doesn't take long.
> >Time is counted in seconds.
> >The preparations were done over a period of years
> in my case and I'm not
> >yet done, BUT on a short notice what did I forget?
> >
> >1) Well, the cap on the hydraulic fluid tank
> (crane) wasn't tight and came
> >off in the water, adding about a gallon of water to
> the oil.
> >The cap had been made waterproof by yours truly and
> my intenton was/is to
> >install a vent in the tank. Since the tank was no
> longer vented, the cap
> >was loosend up every time the crane was used, which
> is daily.
> >About 15 gallons of oil was replaced with new oil,
> but some of the old oil
> >trapped in the low suction line contaminated the
> fresh oil, so it will
> >have to be replaced one more time.
> >I have been cooking the oil on the kitchen stove
> (when my wife is out) and
> >keeping it at about 230-240 degF for 10-15 minutes
> seems to rid it of all
> >water. Fan running and windows and doors open. The
> brownish stuff turns
> >back to black/clear oil. It may look like a messy
> way to go, but the oil
> >costs almost $5/gal. Wonder if any additives are
> boiled off? What a mess.
> >
> >2) I have frequently checked my brake fluid and
> been working on the vent
> >lines when finishing the crankase filter
> installation, so the vent was not
> >kept tight on the master cylinder.
> >The brake fluid looks ok, but since I use DOT 3,
> it's hard to tell how
> >much, if any water is mixed in. I will have to
> flush the brake lines...
> >
> >3) So far, one of the inner wheel bearing seals
> (right rear rear) was not
> >doing its job and water contaminated that inner
> bearing grease. All the
> >wheel bearings have to be checked and repacked and
> the brake drums cleaned
> >(I have one more wheel to go).
> >
> >4) The front right turn signal light housing had 2
> screws missing and
> >wasn't tight. Water filled it and it must now be
> cleaned.
> >
> >That's about it. Pressurizing the axle
> housings/transfer case and bell
> >housing/transmission worked well, no trace of water
> in the fluids.
> >
> >Havn't checked the batteries yet.
> >
> >Fording anyone?
> >
> >Cheers,
> >Bjorn
> >MVPA 19212
> >Meadows of Dan, Virginia, where the leaves on the
> trees are turning yellow,
> >red and brown.
> >
> >PS. One local attraction is the annual applebutter
> cooking process. It is
> >done outdoors and the huge gas heated kettle must
> be stirred constantly for
> >hours. It now reminds me of boiling hydraulic oil
> on the stove to get rid
> >of the water. BB
> >
> >
> >
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>
>
>
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>
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