From: John Souza (John.Souza@ci.fresno.ca.us)
Date: Mon Jan 17 2005 - 08:32:39 PST
Dave,
The M51 never had a reverse light or backup signal. That was put on
afterwards. I have seen backup signals that just have a toggle switch
on the dash. You have to remember to through the switch when you put
the gear shift into reverse.
Do no screw anything in that port on the sprage selector on the
transmission cover. That is the exhaust port.
Now, there are three lines that screw into that selector. One has air
(tank pressure) all the time. And one is pressurized when the gear
shift is in reverse and the other line is pressurized when in any
forward gear. Crack one line and find the reverse. You can put a "T"
and put a pressure switch there.
John Souza
MVPA #2697
Fresno, CA
>>> Dave Sofio <david.sofio@nfesc.com> 01/16/05 11:56 AM >>>
I'm fresh to this list with a '67 Kaiser-Jeep M51 dump, fresh from
surplus, and I'm needing to make this thing legal ASAP. The one snag in
inspection was that the reverse-light didn't work (of all the things
they COULD have picked on...I guess I was lucky in a way). I could fake
it, but I'd like to keep it more or less original, plus not being able
to figure it out always gets to me.
Found a lead (#23) that runs all the way from the lighting switch to the
reverse light. If I hit that with a hot lead, the reverse light comes
on. Great. But...where's the REST? Couldn't find a trace of a
tranny-mounted reverse-light switch, or even any wiring anywhere within
a 2' radius of the transmission.
A related mystery?: There's an empty female-threaded brass fitting on
the top of the tranny, back of the selector lever, that gives off a puff
of compressed air each time I select 'reverse'. Sounds cool like that,
but I'm wondering if there WAS a pressure-switch in that threaded hole,
and the wiring and the switch were all stripped out for some reason.
But the fact that my hot-lead test made the light work would mean that
instead of running the *ground* side of the circuit through the
(missing) switch, they designed this with the *hot* side running through
it...meaning that there was hot wire running all OVER the
place...perhaps explaining why it is now vaporized?
If anyone can help with this, I'd appreciate it muchly. Also, if
someone has a pdf or some such giving some details on the light switch
pinout (what connects to switch connectors... A through...N, is it?) and
light switch FUNCTIONS (ahem...was that a 2-week class, or am I just
slow?) that would be even huger.
So many questions...so little time...so much space...
a) ARE there any fuses on these things? They are very well hidden, if
so...
b) Was this designed with full-time all-wheel drive? Can't find any
way to disengage, so I think it is.
c) Is there some mechanical system that prevents "hyperextending" the
dump? It works fine, but bothers me that there seems to be nothing to
disengage dump functions: the lever goes down (kinda across the door
opening) to dump, and the clutch disengages dumping functions, but of
course I need to hop out and check to see if the load is fully dumped
and such, so I need to leave the bed UP to do so. I've done this a
couple of times, and there is no sign of 'overpressure complaining',
though there is a slight buzz-gurgling sound from the cylinders... that
could be a relief-valve allowing recirculation? But there is no "up and
locked bed" position that I know how to select other, than that.
Similarly, when I bring the dump DOWN--and I think this is under power,
not just gravity, owing to the possible "past-center-of-gravity"
situation where gravity *couldn't* bring it back down-- there is NOTHING
that needs to be done when the bed hits the frame. That lever is
already back in the "stowed" position. So "How do it know?" (Wish the
winch were that smart...)
d) what is under the driver's seat, and is it friendly? If I can ever
get the seat to move, I'll find out for myself.
Dave
Honolulu
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