From: Buzz (muttman@charter.net)
Date: Sun Sep 18 2005 - 11:50:38 PDT
Guys,
FWIW
I've found a inexpensive "solargizer" at Hobo Freight, and they are now on sale
for $9.99..
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=44768
I've used these solar chargers for the last several years on my ATV's, forklift,
garden tractor and of course jeeps with excellent results. The cord is long
enough to reach a nearby window or door if your vehicle is garaged.
The one drawback is that there is electronics in the cigarette plug, so in my
case I just installed a cigarette receptacle in an obscure place on the jeep,
which also comes in handy to power a CD player or radio.
The other requirement is that you have a Master shutoff switch for the batteries
so the chargers won't interact with each other.
One other note, there is a fuse inside the cigarette connector and to replace it
the tip unscrews then the fuse slides out. I've never had to replace a fuse
yet.
Now if you want a AC float charger you can also buy:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42292
But once again a master shutoff switch is required. I've wired two of these
together on a 3 conductor plug so that there is: neg, pos and neg, then pos.
then I plug it into a short cable at the battery box that matches that wiring to
the batteries
Master shutoff switch.
Once again at Hobo Freight.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92688
I have a master shut off switch on all my vehicles, first to prevent little
hands from turning switches ON at MV displays, and second to prevent leakage
currents from discharging the batteries and also to allow me to connect up the
float chargers.
I recently found another source of battery leakage.
I went to use my GRC-106 and the 2 amp fuse in the R/T was blown. I inserted
the spare and it blew also.
When I got home I removed the R/T unit to find the problem. I connected the
radio to a 24V current regulated supply, set at 1 amp. With the radio switch
OFF, as soon as I turned on the power supply the current went to 1 amp!
Checking the schematic I found that there was a filter on the DC socket, pos. to
ground. Using an ohmmeter I read the resistance from pos. to ground at the
socket and I had a reading of 10 ohms which equals a 2.8 amp. current draw.
In this case enough to blow the 2 amp. fuse.
I then tested several other radios of different types and found leakage of
several hundred ohms to several thousand ohms which would leak .030 amps to as
high as .090 amps. Not enough to blow a fuse or trip a breaker but surely enough
to run a battery down over time.
Buzz
On Sat, 17 Sep 2005 17:47:33 -0400, you wrote:
>Never heard any noise from mine. On the CUCV remember that the batteries are
>charged by separate alternators, maybe 2-12 volt would work better? There is
>a company in Alabama that sell 12 volts for around 20.00 + shipping. I have
>them on my 12v lawnmower and tractor also. I have bought from them before
>and received good service. Wayne
>
>http://www.qninet.com/qniwebstore.html
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>From: "Darrell Ramsell" <daram@comcast.net>
>>To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
>>Subject: Re: [MV] Surplus Solargizers Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 14:13:55 -0700
>>
>>Is it normal for these to make a high pitch ringing notice when they are
>>charging?
>>
>>Darrell
>>
>>>Ed
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "James Shanks" <n1vbn@yahoo.com>
>>>To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
>>>Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2005 13:20
>>>Subject: [MV] Surplus Solargizers
>>>
>>>
>>>>Hi Folks,
>>>>
>>>> Anyone got any NOS Solargizers? I would like to
>>>>add one to my M-1009 before Winter sets in here
>>>>in NH. I am in 03038 and could use 3 or 4 of em.
>>>>
>>>>Thanks for any and all help.
>
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