From: Jeff Gatton (jdgatton@yahoo.com)
Date: Sun Oct 09 2005 - 05:16:05 PDT
Don't ya just love electonics?!?!
First off, make sure you have good grounds. There is a main engine block
grounding strap on the back corner of the block under the fuel filter.
There are some filter caps (labeled "SUPPRESSOR" in the schematics) between the
GROUND and 24 V bus and on the windshield wiper motor.
I had a problem on my M1008 where GEN1 light was never coming on. After
tracing the wires all the way to the light, it ended up being the ground wire
on the alternator was open somewhere, so I just put my own ground to the block
instead of trying to trace down the wire harness ground.
You might try isolating all the main systems (alternators, glow plugs, etc),
one at a time and checking your current. When it disappears, you found the bad
system. Then disconnect both batteries and ohm that circuit. 5A @ 12V should
be about 2.4 ohms and 5A @ 24V should be about 4.8 ohms. If it acting like
capacitance, make sure you reverse the meter leads and ohm again.
Have you load tested your batteries to make sure they are good? Wire a good
load to them, like a head light or spot light and see if the voltage stays near
the voltage before you started. I had a battery that showed me 12V without a
load, but as soon as I put a good load on it, it dropped way down.
Jeff Gatton
Saucier, MS
--- Don Low <odonlow@hotmail.com> wrote:
> OK, so months into this , And we are close.
>
> a little catch up, , I had the truck fixed, heads done,
>
> Then I put bosch glow plugs , broke em off,
>
> M son removed the heads drilled em out and got it all back together,
> And striped a alter post, (ep the harder to find 24 volt one)
> Had the old one rebuilt, b a fine shop, that does just alternators and
> starters.
> Said its a Cadillac alternator with a hole drilled in just the right place
> to isolate the regulator negative
>
> I ark welded the 24volt post to the clamp, shen atempting to start it !
> Blew 2 batteries, trying to keep em charged,
>
> New patteries in, and she pulled 5 amps constantly,
>
> replaced the 12 volt alternator with another one I got here and had rebuilt,
>
> traced and tracked , still pulls 5 amps, seems to chard a capacitor
> somewhere,
> removed 24 volt and 12 moved and traced,
>
> SO NOW , TRY IT ?,
> the GEN 1 light is faint , no glow plug light , no solenoid click
> so we
> I have the 12 volt alternator (driver side) 1-2 cable removed (that's the
> one that goes to gen 1 light)
>
> and , hey no 5 amp draw, well, if you have the negative disconnected and
> the amp meter
> between ground and the negative post, it show 5 amps and slowly counts down
> as SOMETHING charges,
> if you touch the ground to the negative it goes to zero amd and stays there
> even when removed again.
> (SO SOME CAPACITOR IS CHARGING)
>
> ANd yep if you give the solenoid 12 volts it clicks on, (still no glow plug
> light)
> and if you turn the key on the solenoid releases)
>
> Theory is, we must have a draw somewhere pulling the 12 volts down so the
> relay can not engage,
>
> I am studing diagrams again , but in the mean time its cold out,
> SOOOOOOOOOO, ANY IDEAS WHAT IS WRONG ???
>
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> Odonlow@hotmail.com
> donlow.50g.com
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