From: Don Low (odonlow@hotmail.com)
Date: Sun Oct 09 2005 - 21:20:27 PDT
I am measuring at the front battery ground. (between the ground and the
front bat negative post)
yep 2 gen, its all original set up
REplaced the drivers side Alt as we thought that might be it, but it still
draws 5 amps if the connector to the gen 1 light it in place.
Odonlow@hotmail.com
donlow.50g.com
From: Chris Brunner <cjbrunner@optonline.net>
Reply-To: cjbrunner@optonline.net
To: Don Low <odonlow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [MV] M1009 problems ???
Date: Sun, 09 Oct 2005 08:44:14 -0400
Where are you measuring your 5 amp draw? Reading over your earlier post I'm
trying to understand, you are using two 12v alternators correct? On Gen 1,
one of the wires on that plug goes to the 12v harness located on the
firewall next to the glow plug relay. The other wire goes into the dash (as
you have noted). Make sure that you're getting a good 12v feed from the
firewall. I would also make sure that you have a good alternator.
Don Low wrote:
>Thanks for the both your ideas,
>I never even considered bypassing the resistor block. (one wonders why it
>even there )
>
>I think my long winded story, overshadowed the question.
>
>so referring to the 20 manual fig f-9 page f-11
>
>1.generator 1, (left)
> I get a draw of 5 amps constantly (even thought I have the key off )
> (if the key is on the GEN 1 light lights faintly)
> If i remove the 2 wire connector
> ( one wire goes to the 12 volt Eng harness, and the other to the GEN
>1 light in the dash )
> , then the current draw goes away. 0 amps .
>
>2. Glow plug relay, has 24 volts on top,
> and if we hot wire it it actuates fine,
> If you turn the key on when your hot wired it lets go.
> (this is telling me something is grounded ???? or drawing all my power
>to "normally actuates it."
>
>
>SO,
>1. What would cause the truck to draw 5 amps , unless the alternator has
>the gen1 light cable removed ???
>
>2. What is drawing current form the glow plug relay ??
>
>Same thing I guess ???
>
>
>
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>From: Chris Brunner <cjbrunner@optonline.net>
>To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
>Subject: Re: [MV] M1009 problems ???
>Date: Sat, 08 Oct 2005 14:03:08 -0400
>
>I'd agree with Stu here on the resistor mounted to the back of the firewall
>(or cowl depending on what school you come from). I've replaced my
>resistor two times now because they keep shorting out to twenty four volts.
> In the long run I just removed the glow plugs from the resistor and moved
>them over to the 12v side of things in the CUCV, leaving the resistor in
>place for cosmetic reasons. I switched over to AC60G's and a manual
>pushbutton to activate them because from what I've learned the AC60's are
>better resistance balanced to keep from swelling. The plugs took a little
>modification to fit (needed to grind the tab down a little bit to fit in
>the stock wiring).
>
>Chris
>
>Stu wrote:
>
>>First thing I would do is make the glow plugs manual with a button. You
>>don't need wait light. I would also bypass the resister on the back wall
>>and make it 12v direct to the solenoid.
>>
>> "Stu" Southern NH, USA "Live Free Or Die" MVPA #14790
>>
>>1967 M151A1 Jeep 1964 M416 Trailer 1985 M1008 CUCV Pickup
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Military Vehicles Mailing List [mailto:mil-veh@mil-veh.org] On
>>Behalf
>>Of Don Low
>>Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 11:57 PM
>>To: Military Vehicles Mailing List
>>Subject: [MV] M1009 problems ???
>>
>>OK, so months into this , And we are close.
>>
>>a little catch up, , I had the truck fixed, heads done,
>>
>>Then I put bosch glow plugs , broke em off,
>>
>>M son removed the heads drilled em out and got it all back together,
>>And striped a alter post, (ep the harder to find 24 volt one)
>>Had the old one rebuilt, b a fine shop, that does just alternators and
>>starters.
>>Said its a Cadillac alternator with a hole drilled in just the right place
>>to isolate the regulator negative
>>
>>I ark welded the 24volt post to the clamp, shen atempting to start it !
>>Blew 2 batteries, trying to keep em charged,
>>
>>New patteries in, and she pulled 5 amps constantly,
>>
>>replaced the 12 volt alternator with another one I got here and had
>>rebuilt,
>>
>>traced and tracked , still pulls 5 amps, seems to chard a capacitor
>>somewhere,
>>removed 24 volt and 12 moved and traced,
>>
>>SO NOW , TRY IT ?,
>>the GEN 1 light is faint , no glow plug light , no solenoid click
>>so we
>>I have the 12 volt alternator (driver side) 1-2 cable removed (that's the
>>one that goes to gen 1 light)
>>
>>and , hey no 5 amp draw, well, if you have the negative disconnected and
>>the amp meter
>>between ground and the negative post, it show 5 amps and slowly counts
>>down as SOMETHING charges,
>>if you touch the ground to the negative it goes to zero amd and stays
>>there even when removed again.
>>(SO SOME CAPACITOR IS CHARGING)
>>
>>ANd yep if you give the solenoid 12 volts it clicks on, (still no glow
>>plug light)
>>and if you turn the key on the solenoid releases)
>>
>>Theory is, we must have a draw somewhere pulling the 12 volts down so the
>>relay can not engage,
>>
>>I am studing diagrams again , but in the mean time its cold out,
>>SOOOOOOOOOO, ANY IDEAS WHAT IS WRONG ???
>>
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>>Odonlow@hotmail.com
>>donlow.50g.com
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>>
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>
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